Stay-on Hand Towel the 2nd

I've counted! Today, I had to retrieve the hand-towel from the floor 33 times after the kids went in to wash their hands! So, short of tying a hand towel to their shirt (which I did threatened, and got a response of: "can you make mine a bunny shape, then I can use the ears to tie to my shirt!!"), I decided to make more (no not bunny shape, although that did spark my interest ;] )as the 1st one had been on the towel ring since I put it on! Woohoo!

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Hang on towel ring

Or hang on oven door handle

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Stitches Used/Abbreviation:

Cable CO: insert right needle in between 2 stitches, wrap yarn as if to knit, pull up a loop, and put the loop on left needle. Video instruction here. Since there's already stitches on left needle, skip the slip knot and first 2 sts, observe when she CO the 3rd st. This is what is needed for the pattern below.

St St : RS - knit, WS - purl (this will count as 1 st st row)

Garter st: knit on both RS and WS. (this will count as 1 garter st row)

byf: bring yarn forward to front of needle
byb: bring yarn to back of needle

psso: pass slip stitch over

k2tog: knit 2 together

pm - place marker
sm - slip marker

Border: (k, p) 3x, k1

Notes:

When you see "garter st for 2 rows" in pattern instructions, you would knit on both RS & WS, and this 2 row would count as ONE garter st row.

When you see byf, bring the yarn forward, keep the yarn in front of needle, then knit the following stitch.

Needles: 5.0 mm /US 8

Yarn: Bernat Handicrafter in Country Pink & Dark Brown

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Ruffles:

CO 84 in Country Pink

St st for 4 rows (or till your st st measure 1", ending on the WS)

(RS) k2tog to the end (42 sts)

Garter st for 2 rows

P the next row

Pattern Stitch:

Attach new yarn

1) Border, pm, k1, [sl 1, k1, psso, k9, k2tog]; repeat [ ] 1 more time, k1, pm, Border.

2) & 4) Border, sm, p to marker, sm, Border

3) Border, sm, k1, [sl 1, k1, psso, k7, k2tog]; repeat [ ] 1 more time, k1, sm, Border.

5) Border, sm, k1, [sl 1, k1, psso, byf, (k1, byf)5x, k2tog]; repeat [ ] 1 more time, k1, sm, Border.

6) Border, sm, k to marker, sm, Border

Repeat Pattern Stitch 9 times, ending with row 6)

Note:  If you don't want the slit, skip the following section, and proceed straight to the After Slit section.

Border, St st for 4 rows, Border.

Slit Opening:

(RS) Border, k5, byf, sl next st purlwise, byb, *sl next st, psso; repeat from * till there's 4 sts left before marker.

Sl the last bo st back on the right needle to the left needle. (you now have 5 sts before marker on left needle)

Turn work (WS), byb, CO 21 sts using cable CO

Turn work (RS), byb, sl the next st on left needle to right needle, pass 1 st of the CO (on right needle) over.

k1, k2tog, k1, Border. (42 sts)

(WS) k to end

St st for 2 rows.

Garter St for 1 row.

After Slit:

Continue working Pattern Stitch section for 9 times, ending with row 6).

Garter st for 1 row.

BO

Loop towel through the slit opening onto towel ring.

Then pull the top through slit.

With RS facing and ruffles on bottom, put towel through the towel ring.

Stay-on Hand Towel the 1st

There's always a spot for my ever-growing yarn stash in my closet. Now, these "growing" stash are threatening to dominate hubby's closet as well. Most of these stash are from my early crochet years. I would stock up on yarn whenever there's a sale at AC Moore. I know little or close to nothing about yarn when I first started, so needless to say, I thought it was a pretty GOOD deal to be paying $6 for 1 pound of 100% cotton. I thought these would look great as vest or skirt when I get to that level where I can crochet/knit garments! Little did I know that, these yarn aren't meant for making garments! Off course, like everything else, I had learned the hard way ;) Made a few garments for my girls using these Handicrafters Cotton, and well... they are now very attractive floor mats or dish towel! Currently, I can look back and laugh at this idiot in the mirror who uses all the wrong kind of yarn for her crochet & knits! :P

So, now I know better, it is time to reduce those over 10 skeins of Handicraters so I can stock up on the more luxurious yarn!

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Stitches Used:

Cable CO: insert right needle in between 2 stitches, wrap yarn as if to knit, pull up a loop, and put the loop on left needle. Video instruction here. Since there's already stitches on left needle, skip the slip knot and first 2 sts, observe when she CO the 3rd st. This is what is needed for the pattern below.

St St : RS - knit, WS - purl (this will count as 1 st st row)

Garter st: knit on both RS and WS. (this will count as 1 garter st row)

byf: bring yarn forward to front of needle

byb: bring yarn to back of needle

psso: pass slip stitch over

k2tog: knit 2 together

p2tog: purl 2 together

Notes:

When you see "garter st for 2 rows" in pattern instructions, you would knit on both RS & WS, and this 2 row would count as ONE garter st row.

Needles: 5.0 mm /US 8

Yarn: Bernat Handicrafter in Grassy Green & Dream Twist

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Ruffles:

CO 60 in Grassy Green

St st for 4 rows (or till your st st measure 1", ending on the WS)

(RS) k2tog to the end (30 sts)

Garter st for 2 rows

P the next row

Pattern Stitch:

Attach new yarn

1) k3 (this is border), k3, k2tog, k4, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, yo, k4, sl 1, k1, psso, k3, (border) k3.

2) and every other row: k3, (border), p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, (border) k3.

3) k3 (border), k2, k2tog, k4, yo, k1, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k1, yo, k4, sl 1, k1, psso, k2, (border) k3.

5) k3 (border), k1, k2tog, k4, yo, k2, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, k4, sl 1, k1, psso, k1, (border) k3.

7) k3 (border), k2tog, k4, yo, k3, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k3, yo, k4, sl 1, k1, psso, (border) k3.

8) repeat row 2)

Repeat Pattern Stitch for 6 times, or until desired length (taking into account that there will be 4" more to towel top), ending with row 8)

(RS) k3 (border), St st for 4 rows, k3 (border).

Slit Opening:

(RS) k3 (border), k3, byf, sl next st purlwise, byb, *sl next st, psso; repeat from * till there's 5 sts left.

Sl the last bo st back on the right needle to the left needle.

Turn work (WS), byb, CO 19 sts using cable CO

Turn work (RS), byb, sl the next st on left needle to right needle, pass 1 st of the CO (on right needle) over.

k5 to the end. (30 sts)

(WS) k to end

Garter st for 2 rows.

(RS) k to end

(WS) k3 (border), p to last 3 sts, k3 (border).

Towel Top:

1) (RS) k3 (border), k2 tog, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3 (border).

2) (WS) k3 (border), p2tog, p to last 5 sts, p2tog, k3 (border).

Repeat row 1) and 2) till there's 7 sts left on needle, ending with row 2)

(WS) k3 (border), p2tog, k3 (border).

Garter st for 2 rows.

BO.

Loop towel through the slit opening onto towel ring.

Non-stop!

Since the passing of the glove bug, this is what I've been up to these past months...

Skirt and Cardigan

Spring Cardigan for GB

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Bolero for Ruthie. modeled by B2

Pineapple Print Bolero

Wavy Bolero

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Experimented (using short-row knit) with whole bunch of headbands. Made some applique to attach to headbands or use as head pins.

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For myself:

All Season Scarf

Glittering Matcha Pullover

V-Neck Tee

Currently, bitten by the dish/hand towel bug!
 

 

Hot Hand Warmers

One hand warmer, two hand warmer, three hand warmer, four! These are all made with the same concept like the Toddler Hand Warmer. They all started out a rectangle. As I like to try different pattern stitch, each of these hand warmer have a different pattern stitch for the back of the hand.

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For B1:

Patt St  - work over 15 sts

k2, [k2tog (don't slip off needle), p2tog (the same 2 sts), k1] 4x, k1

CO 33 (15, 3, 15) 15 for patt st (back of hand), 3 for thumb inc, 15 for st st (palm)

Needle: 3.25mm for cuffs, 3.75mm

Hook: 3.75mm

Yarn: Caron Simply Soft  in dark brown, & pink

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For B2:

Patt St - work over 17 sts

1) (RS) k

2) p1, *[p3tog (leave sts on needle), yo, p the same 3 sts tog again], p1; rep from * to end

3) k

4) p3, [p3tog (leave sts on needle), yo, p the same 3 sts tog again], *p1, [p3tog (leave sts on needle), yo, p the same 3 sts tog again]; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3

CO 38 (17, 4, 17)

Needle: 3.25mm

Yarn: TLC Baby in Powder Pink

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For KB:

Patt. St - work over 17 sts

1) (RS) k1, *p3tog (don't slip to the other needle, leave it on the current needle), bytb, k3tog (the same 3 sts that was purled), bytf, p3tog (the same 3 sts), then slip to other needle, k1*; rep * to *

2) p

CO 38 (17, 4, 17)

Needle: 2.75 for cuffs, 3.75mm

Hook: 3.75mm

Yarn: Bernat Baby Sport in Powder Blue

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For AB:

Patt St - work over 21 sts

1) (RS) p1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end

2) k1, *[p3tog (leave sts on needle), yo, p the same 3 sts tog again], k1; rep from * to end

3) p1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end

4) k1, p1, k1, *[p3tog (leave sts on needle), yo, p the same 3 sts tog again], k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1

CO 46 (21, 4, 21)

Needle: 3.25mm

Yarn: TLC Baby in Powder Pink

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For Anna:

In the making

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For Hubby:

Planning stage

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For Self:

Take a back seat! :p

Stay-on Scarf Applique

These are the applique I crocheted for the Stay-on Scarfs. My favorite is the dog :), and the most fun I had crocheting is the peace sign which my friend's daughter requested.

 

 

Adult Gaunlet Hand Warmers

I knitted this for a friend who just recently started to get joint pain during this season's coldest winter. Since it's mostly the back of her hand that's aching, this hand warmer would keep the back of her hands warm, and yet keep her fingers free for daily indoor chorus.

Just like the Toddler Hand Warmer, this is knitted in rectangle, with increase around the thumb area. Then the finished piece is seam together, and the "ring" of the glove is crocheted on.

To adjust for bigger size, increase pattern stitch by 4, increase thumb increase by 2, and add 4 more sts to the palm side.

Needle: 3.75mm for cuffs, & 4.5mm

Hooker: 3.75mm

2 stitch markers

Yarn: Caron Simply Soft in dark brown

Size: Adult Small

bytb - bring yarn to back of work

bytf - bring yarn to front of work

Patt. St

RS:

k1, *p3tog (don't slip to the other needle, leave it on the current needle), bytb, k3tog (the same 3 sts that was purled), bytf, p3tog (the same 3 sts), then slip to other needle, k1*; rep * to *

WS: p

Note: 

• p on WS throughout
• inc 2 sts for thumb opening on every 5th row

Right Hand

CO 38 with 3.75mm

Work 1x1 rib till piece measures 1" ending on WS

Switch to 4.5mm needles

k 1 row

p 1 row

[RS facing, work patt st over 17 sts, k4, k17 ] ; rep [ ] till piece measures 2" from CO, ending on WS

RS facing, work patt st over 17 sts, [pm, m1, k4, m1,]--> thumb inc, k17

Rep highlighted row, inc thumb every 5th row, until thumb inc = 12 sts, ending on WS

[RS facing, work patt st to marker, k12, k17 ] ; rep [ ] till piece measures 3.5" from CO, ending on WS

RS facing, work patt st to marker, BO12, k17

WS facing, BO17, CO 4, p17

[RS facing, Work patt st over 17 sts, k4]; rep [ ] till piece measures 4.5", ending on WS

RS, k 1 row

WS, BO but do not fasten off the last sts.

Using 3.75mm hook, ch-5, attach to the "crease" - red line (refer to diagram above) with an sc, ch-7, attach to crease with sc, ch-8, attach to crease with sc, ch-5, attach to edge, fasten off.

Seam together starting from CO.

Left Hand

Notes: working the left hand is simply knit first (for palm), then work the pattern stitch

CO 38 with 3.75mm

Work 1x1 rib till piece measures 1" ending on WS

Switch to 4.5mm needles

k 1 row

p 1 row

[RS facing, k17, k4, work patt st to end] ; rep [ ] till piece measures 2" from CO, ending on WS

RS facing,  k17, [pm, m1, k4, m1,]--> thumb inc, work patt st to end

Rep highlighted row, inc thumb every 5th row, until thumb inc = 12 sts, ending on WS

[RS facing, k17, k12, work patt st to end] ; rep [ ] till piece measures 3.5" from CO, ending on WS

RS facing, k17, BO12, work patt st to end

WS facing, p17, CO 4, p17

RS facing, BO 17, k4, patt st to end

[RS facing, Work patt st over 17 sts, k4]; rep till piece measures 4.5", ending on WS

RS, k 1 row

WS, BO but do not fasten off the last sts.

Using 3.75mm hook, ch-5, attach to the "crease" (refer to diagram) with an sc, ch-7, attach to crease with sc, ch-8, attach to crease with sc, ch-5, attach to edge, fasten off.

Seam together from CO

Toddler Hand Warmer

His upside-down stance :)

Stockinette on the palm

Pattern on the back of hand

For my 2 year old, it's IMPOSSIBLE to get him to wear mittens! He feels like I am binding his fingers, and will go into a screaming fit! He'll wear gloves, but they are too big! So he dislike it as his "bulgy" finger hinder his activities. Aside from infant mitts, nothing seems to fit. So what else can a knitchetholic mom do to keep his little hands warm?! Make one! :)

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This is knitted in rectangle, with increase around the thumb. Then BO for the thumb opening. The finished piece is then seam together. To hold the hand warmer form slipping down when worn, I crochet chains and attached it using surface crocheting.

I didn't document every step as I knitted. Please pardon any mistake, if there's any, as I wrote this after I've finished the hand-warmer.

Needle: Size 2 (2.75 mm)

Hook : 3.25 mm

Yarn: Bernat Baby Sport in Baby Blue

Size: 2.25" in width, 2.75" in height

2 Stitch marker

Term used:

CO - cast  on

RS - right side (with your project facing you, cast on tail hangs on the right)

WS - wrong side

patt st - pattern stitch

pm - place marker

m1L - make one left (this is an increase) m1L video - 3rd one down on the right side

BO - bind off
sl st - slip stitch (crochet term)

Rib 1x1

* k, p; rep from * to end

Pattern Stitch

1) *k2, p1; rep from * 3x

2) *k1, p2; rep from * 3x

3) *k2, p1; rep from * 3x

4)  k12

For both hands:

CO 26

Rib 1x1 til piece measures 0.5", ending on the RS.

K on WS.

RIGHT HAND:

1) With RS facing, work row (1) of patt. st (total of 12 stitches), k2, k12.
2) p 12, p2, work row (2) of patt st
3) Work row (3) of patt st (12 sts), [pm, m1L, k2, m1L, pm,] --> increase for thumb, k12
4) p to marker, work row (4) of patt st
5) work row (1) of patt. st (total of 12 stitches), k to end. --> the sts within marker is for the thumb

*6) p to marker, work row (2) of patt st.

7) work row (3) of patt st, k to end.
8) p to marker, work row (4) of patt st.

9) work row (1) of patt st (12 sts), [pm, m1L, k4, m1L, pm] --> total 6 sts, k12

Work the highlighted rows, increasing for thumb every 5th row. Work until you have a total of 8 sts for the thumb increase (these are the sts that are within the marker).

When you have 8 sts in thumb increase, repeat row *

Shaping Thumb Opening

1) With RS facing, continue to work patt st (this should be row (3) of the patt st), BO 8, k12

2) p12, CO 3 (using m1T - 2nd one on the left side), work row (4) of patt st

3) Work row (1) of patt st, k to end

4) p15, work row (2) of patt st

5) Work row (3) of patt st, k to end

6) K each st, and BO

Do not fasten off. Using crochet hook, sl st in next 3. Seam the knitted piece, then finish off the crochet chain.


Refer to Diagram 1, use crochet hook, sl st to stitch before the "crease" (refer to Diagram 2), attach to the "crease". See diagrams for further instructions.

DIAGRAM 1
From 1 (where knitting ends), sl st to (2), attach using sc. Ch-4, attach at (3). Sl st in next 3 stitches to (4). Ch-4, attach at (5). Sl st in next 4 stitches to (6). Ch-4, attach to (7). Fasten off.

DIAGRAM 2
Use the "crease" (red lines) as guide when attaching the crocheted chain. Each "column" should hold one tiny finger. :)

LEFT HAND:
1) With RS facing, k14, work row (1) of patt. st (total of 12 stitches).
2) work row (2) of patt st,  p14.
3) k12, [pm, m1L, k2, m1L, pm,] --> increase for thumb, work row (3) of patt st (12 sts), 

4) work row (4) of patt (end at 1st marker), p to end
5) k to 2nd marker, work row (1) of patt. st (total of 12 stitches).
*6) work row (2) of patt st, p to end.

7) k to 2nd marker, work row (3) of patt st.

8) work row (4) of patt st, p to end.

k12, [pm, m1L, k4, m1L, pm] --> total 6 sts, Work row (3) of patt st (12 sts).

Work the highlighted rows, increasing for thumb every 5th row. Work until you have a total of 8 sts for the thumb increase.

When you have 8 sts in thumb increase, repeat row *

Shaping Thumb Opening
1) With RS facing, k12, BO 8, continue to work patt st (this should be row (3) of the patt st).
2) work row (4) of patt st, CO 3, p12.
3) p15, work row (1) of patt st to end.
4) work row (2) of patt st, p to end.
5) p15, work row (3) of patt st.
6) K each st, and BO

Repeat crochet chain like for right hand.