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Welcome to Pikay's Gallery

I'm a self-taught crocheter/knitter that's always hunger to learn more. A mammoth thank you to all fellow crocheter/knitter that took their time to post videos and written tutorial. It wouldn't have been possible without your contribution! THANK YOU!

2/18/2012:

Wow! Another year slipped by...how time flies when you're knitting :) It's obvious, I've been slacking on my blog update. Last post was 4/27/11! I'm officially an occasional blogger only. What I slack off in blog, I more than made-up in knitting and crocheting. Most of my projects are somewhat recent on Ravelry.

Major milestone for 2011:

Shelliyanni went live on 8/6/11. My first knitting pattern for sale.

All patterns here are for personal and charitable use only. Please do not sell the patterns or the finished project. Thank you for honoring this request.



Bag Organizer Insert



7/14 - Just got my Spartina 449 Day Tote bag today! LOVE the bag, but unfortunately it lacks compartment! So gonna crochet one!


This is more a method than a pattern. It has a lot of possibilities, very customizable to the way you want it. I did write up the pattern for my insert further down the page, but I encourage you to try to customize it to your bag size, right down to how many pockets you want, and which side you want it at - inside (like mine) or on the outside. :) All this is done without sewing. Don't let this lengthy guide dissuade you. It really isn't difficult. Once you get a hang of it, it's can really cut down the time of having to work a separate piece and then sew to attached to your main piece.
I made a video while crocheting this insert, but since this my first attempt in making videos of my work, it didn't turn out too well. As you will see, I didn't zoom in enough for you to see what I was doing clearly. So I've included a hand drawn diagram, and hopefully these will help you get going.

Notes:
PU - pick up. 
This is a knitting term to pull up new stitches along one or more edges of a piece of knitting. I use this term here when outlining dividers and pockets. 
So when you see PU, it means: insert hook in starting position, and out on the next position (don't necessary be a stitch, it can be in between stitches), yo, pull up a loop.

Diagram 1
Base:
Starting chain will be the length of your insert. Chain to the length that would fit into your bag length-wise. Refer to Diagram 1.

Rnd 1
Hdc row will be the width of your insert.  Hdc 3rd ch from hook, and in each ch till the last chain. Turn

Rnd 2
Ch 2, hdc in 1st st, and in each st till the end. Turn. Repeat this until you get the width of your bag. Refer to Diagram 1.

Diagram 2
Side:
When you reach the width you desire, do not turn. Cont. to work in rounds using sc, adding 3 sc in each corner of the base. Diagram 2.

Diagram 3
Rnd 1:
3sc in next st, sc down the side of base, 3 sc in corner, sc along lower baseline, 3 sc in corner, sc up the side of base, 3 sc in corner, sc along upper baseline, join with sl st to 1st sc made. Diagram 3.

Rnd 2:
Ch 1, for this round only, work sc in back lp all around, join to ch 1.

Rnd 3:
Ch 2, hdc all around, join to top of ch 2. Repeat this row until desired height. Fasten off.

Divider:
Starting
Diagram 4
Turn insert inside out. Join yarn at starting point (Diagram 4) of where your divider will be.  {Insert hook in and out, yo and pull up a lp} --> this is PU, {yo and pull through 2 lps} -->; this is sc. Here's a badly made PU & sc video ;) Insert hook in place where you just made your sc, and out on the next st, yo and pull up a lp, and sc. Cont. to PU and sc to outline the base of your divider. Keep count of how many sc made. Keep this number of stitches as you work up your divider with hdc. The number of hdc should be the same as your outlined sc.

Join to wall
When you reach the end of the base, you would want to join with PU and sl st to the wall of the insert. Click at your own risk of eye-ache: another not-so-clear joining video clip. ;)
PU on the wall, keep it real tight, and sl st. Repeat 1 more PU and sl st. Turn.

Building up divider
Rnd 1 
Skip the 2 sl st, hdc in sc and hdc in all sc outlined. Keep count! Proceed to [PU and sl st] twice to wall (Last video PU and sl st, I promised!). Turn.

Rnd 2
Skip the 2 sl st, hdc next stitch and all the way to the last hdc.  Keep count. [PU and sl st] twice to wall. Turn. Repeat this rnd till divider is same height with your insert. Fasten off.

Pockets:
Diagram 5
Outline your pocket on the insert by using the PU and sc method. Once you've outlined the pocket, sc in each outlined sc toward the lower baseline. Diagram 5.

Rnd 1
Hdc on the base (Diagram 5), PU and sl st to the outlined sc on side, PU and sl st to next sc. Turn. Skip the 2 sl sts, hdc in 1st hdc and all hdc. (Keep count of hdc. The number of hdc should be the same as the outlined sc on the base pocket). PU and sl st to the sc on side, PU and sl st to next sc. Turn. Repeat this rnd till pocket is complete.

Finishing off:
Once you've add in all your desired dividers and pockets, sl st all around top edge to give it a sturdier hold. 

Diagram 6
Sl st on the outside, the edge line down of all corner (Diagram 6). This create a crease and would define the shape of your insert.



Hook: G (4.0 mm)
Yarn: Bernat Super Value in True Grey
Yarn suggestions: Red Heart Super Saver, any medium worsted yarn.
Finished object measurements: 10" L x 4"W x 5" H
Ch 43
Rnd 1:
Hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Hdc in all ch, (40 sts). Turn

Rnd 2
Ch 2, hdc in 1st st and the next 39 sts. Turn. Repeat 14x. Do not turn.

From here on, do not turn. Pattern will be worked in the round.
Side:
Rnd 1
3 sc in next st, work 10 sc along the side edge, 3 sc in corner, sc in the next 39 hdc, 3 sc in last hdc, work 10 sc along the other side edge, 3 sc in corner, sc in the next 39 hdc. Join to top of ch 2.

Rnd 2:
Ch 1, for this round only, work sc in back lp. Sc in all the sc of previous row, join to ch 1.

Rnd 3:
Ch 2, hdc around in all sts of previous row, join to top of ch 2. Repeat this row 15x. Fasten off.

Vertical Divider:
Rnd 1:
Turn insert inside out. Count 10 sts from the right, on the upper baseline. Join yarn, PU and work 14 sc across base piece. When reach the wall (you'll be able to see the line where the sc was worked in back lp), PU and sl st to wall twice. Turn.

Rnd 2:
Skip the 2 sl st, hdc in sc, work hdc in the next 13 sc (14 sts). Join to wall with PU and sl st, twice. Turn.

Rnd 3:
Skip the 2 sl st, hdc in 1st st, hdc to the end (14 sts). PU and sl st, twice. Turn. Repeat 15x. Turn. Sl st in 1st hdc, sl st in the next 13 hdc, sl st to wall of insert. Fasten off.

Horizontal Divider:
Rnd 1:
Turn your insert so that your vertical divider is now on your left. From the upper baseline, count 8 rows of hdc, join yarn on the end of 8th row. PU and work 30 sc horizontally across towards your vertical divider. PU and sl st to wall of vertical divider twice. Turn.

Rnd 2:
Skip the 2 sl st, hdc in sc, work hdc in the next 29 sc (30 sts). Join to side wall with PU and sl st, twice. Turn.

Rnd 3:
Skip the 2 sl st, hdc in 1st st, hdc to the end (30 sts). PU and sl st, twice. Turn. Repeat 15x. Turn. Sl st in 1st hdc, sl st in the next 39 hdc, sl st to wall of insert. Fasten off.

Pocket 1:
Keep your work turned inside out. When you work your outline for the pocket, you insert will be turned sideways (horizontal divider will be vertical, and vertical divider will now be horizontal). Count 10 rows from bottom baseline, join yarn on the 10th row about 0.5" away from the side wall of insert. PU and work 11 sc down towards the bottom baseline of insert. PU and work 16 sc across bottom baseline, and PU and work 11 sc up towards upper baseline. Turn work 180 degrees, work 11 sc towards lower baseline. Turn work 90 degrees.

Rnd 1:
Hdc in the next 16 sts, on the base (Diagram 5), PU and sl st to the outlined sc on side, PU and sl st to next sc. Turn. 

Rnd 2:
Skip the 2 sl sts, hdc in 1st hdc and hdc in 15 sts. PU and sl st to the sc on side, PU and sl st to next sc. Turn. Repeat this rnd 11x. Sl st in 1st hdc, sl st in the next 15 hdc, sl st to wall of insert. Fasten off.

Pocket 2:
Keep your work turned inside out. When you work your outline for the pocket, you insert will be turned sideways (horizontal divider will be vertical, and vertical divider will now be horizontal). Count 10 rows from bottom baseline, join yarn on the 10th row about 0.5" away from Pocket 1. PU and work 11 sc down towards the bottom baseline of insert. PU and work 10 sc across bottom baseline, and PU and work 11 sc up towards upper baseline. Turn work 180 degrees, work 11 sc towards lower baseline. Turn work 90 degrees.

Rnd 1:
Hdc in the next 10 sts, on the base (Diagram 5), PU and sl st to the outlined sc on side, PU and sl st to next outlined sc. Turn. 

Rnd 2:
Skip the 2 sl sts, hdc in 1st hdc and hdc in 9 sts. PU and sl st to the sc on side, PU and sl st to next sc. Turn. Repeat this rnd 11x. Sl st in 1st hdc, sl st in the next 9 hdc, sl st to wall of insert. Fasten off.

Finishing off:
Turn your work right side out. Sl st all around top edge and sl st down each edge on the insert (Diagram 6). Fasten off.

Summer Booties

 

His Alex the Lion Winter Booties

I crochet this booty mirroring a winter booty that we bought from Wal-mart last winter. My 20 months old seems to love that booty. He would wear it even in this hot summer heat! Hence, I decided to make one for him not only because it's not so warm to wear, but also he is starting to out-grow the winter one. He definitely prefer this booties over his Toddler Crocs.



Method: Crochet
Size: 2T+ (Finished Sole - 6.25")
Hook: F (3.75mm)
Yarn: AC Moore Mill Ends 100% Cotton - 
        Color 1 (C1) in Black, Color 2 (C2) Bernat Cotton Baby in Grape Berry, Color 3 (C3) in  Bone
Yarn suggestion: Bernat Super Value, Red Heart Super Saver
Material: Four 5mm eyes, two 5mm pompom

Stitches used:
Hdc – yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 3 lps.

Hdc dec – yo, insert hook into st, yo pull up a lp, yo, insert hook into next st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, draw through all 5 lps.


Sole:
Rnd 1
With C1, ch 16, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sc in the next 8, hdc in the next 5, 2 hdc in next, 5 hdc in last ch. Work on the opposite of ch, 2 hdc in next, hdc in next 5, sc in next 8. (35 sts). Sl st to 1st beg ch.

Rnd 2
(2sc in next)2x, sc in next 6, hdc in next 8, 2 hdc in next, 4 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next, hdc in next 8, sc 6, (2sc in next)2x. (44 sts) Sl st in next.

Rnd 3
Sc in next, (2sc in next)2x, sc in next 7, hdc in next 8, (2 hdc in next, hdc in next)4x, hdc in next 8, sc in next 7, (2 sc in next)2x, sc in next. (52 sts) Sl st in next.

Rnd 4
Sc in next 2, 2 sc in next, sc in next 9, hdc in next 10, (2 hdc in next, hdc in next)4x, hdc in next 10, sc in next 9, 2 sc in next, sc in next 2. (58 sts) Sl st in next.

Rnd 5
Sc in next 3, 2 sc in next, sc in next 9, hdc in next 12, (2 hdc in next, hdc in next)4x, hdc in next 12, sc in next 9, 2 sc in next, sc in next 3. (64 sts) Sl st in next.

Side & Top:
Rnd1
Ch 2 (count as 1sc and joining st), 
Left shoe - work sc all around in BACK lp
Right shoe - work sc all around in FRONT lp
Sl st to top of ch-2 (65 sts)

Rnd 2
Ch 2 (count as 1 hdc), starting from next st, hdc in the next 12, (hdc dec, hdc in next 3)8x, hdc dec, hdc in next 11 (57 sts). Fasten off.

Rnd 3
Left shoe, with RS facing
Right shoe, with WS facing
Join in C2, ch 3 (count as 1 dc and sl st ch) , dc in the next 11, (dc dec, dc in next 2)8x, dc dec, dc in next 11, join to top of ch 3. (48 sts)

Rnd 4
Ch 3, dc in next 11, (dc dec, dc in next)8x, dc dec, dc in next 10, join to top of ch 3. (39 sts)

Rnd 5
Ch 3, dc all around, join to top of ch 3. (39 sts)

Rnd 6
Ch 3, dc in next 10, (dc dec)9x, dc in next 10, join to top of ch 3. (30 sts)

Rnd 7
Ch 3, dc in next 10, (dc dec)5x, dc in next 9, join to top of ch 3. (25 sts). Fasten off.

Rnd 8 & 9
Join in C1, ch 3, dc all around, join to top of ch 3. (25 sts)

Rnd 10
Ch 3, hdc all around, join to top of ch 3. (25 sts). Fasten off.

Doggy Face:
Rnd 1
With C3, with Magic Loop method, Ch 1, 5 sc into Magic Loop

Rnd 2
2 sc in each sc all around.

Rnd 3
(Sc in next, 2 sc in next)5x, sc in last st, join with sl st in next.

Ears:
[Ch 4, 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, sl st in next, sl st to the next sc on the face]. Sl st in the next 5 sc (to get to the other side to crochet the other ear), repeat from [ ]. Fasten off. 

Finishing off:
Weave in all ends. Using hot glue gun,  glue eyes and nose. Use puffy paint on the bottom of sole to make it non-skid.

Toddler Crocs




I created this crocs based on the actual Croc that my son is starting to ourgrew. His original crocs was meant for outdoor used, but he kept bringing them in to wear indoors. Outside shoes are not permitted at home coz for obvious reason, goodness know what sort of stuff that shoe has stepped on being outdoor. So I made these for him.

9/22/10: Made correction to add right-side sole
When I made these, my son doesn't know left from right. So I didn't attempt to make a right-sided sole ;) It wasn't till I made his summer booties that I realize it's easy as flipping to the WS or in the croc's case, crochet in the front loop.



Size: 2T + (Finished Sole is 6.5")
Hook: G (4 mm)
Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver or any bulky or medium worsted yarn.

Stitches used:
Hdc – yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 3 lps

Dc dec – yo, insert hook into st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo, insert hook into next st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo and pull through all 3 lps

NOTE:
I used 2 strands of yarn for the sole. It is very tight to crochet given the hook I used, but this gives a thick sole that holds up its shape. The results are worth my slightly sore hands :) Alternately, you could crochet 2 pieces of the sole and sew them together. I'm just not a sewing person ;)



Sole:
Ch 18
Rnd 1
Sc 10 from 2nd  ch, hdc in next, dc in next 4, 2 dc in next, 5 dc in last ch.
Work on the opposite of ch, 2 dc in next, dc in next 4, hdc in next, sc in next 10. (39 sts). Sl st to 1st beg ch.

Rnd 2
Hdc in next 10, dc in next 4, (dc in next, 2 dc in next)2x, (2 sc in next)3x, (dc in next, 2 dc in next)2x, dc in next 4, hdc in next 10 (47 sts). Sl st to next st.

Rnd 3
(2 sc in next)2x, sc in next 42, (2 sc in next)2x. (50 sts). Sl st to next st. Fasten off 1 strand of yarn.

Side:
Using only 1 strand from here on, and do not join. Use marker on first st of every round.
Rnd 1
Work in back loop (only for this rnd) - sc all around sole including the sl st sticth (51 sts)
Left shoe - work sc all around sole including the sl st stitch in BACK lp (51 sts)
Right shoe - work sc all around sole including the sl st stitch in FRONT lp (51 sts)
Rnd 2
Sc all around (51 sts)

Rnd 3
Sc 39 ( It's probably easier to just count 12 backwards from the marker), turn. Will proceed to the shoe top next. When top is finished, will cont. to finish the rest of the side.

Top:
Rnd 1:
Work in front loop (only for this rnd) - Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next, dc in next, dc in next 4, (dc dec, dc in next 2)3x, dc in next 4, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, turn

Rnd 2:
Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next, dc in next, (dc dec)2x, (dc in next, dc dec)3x, dc dec, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, turn

Rnd 3:
Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next, dc in next, (dc dec)4x, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, turn.

Rnd 4:
Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next, dc in next, dc dec, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next.

Finishing Off:
Sl st on the post of turning ch of shoe top (4 sl sts), sl st to the stitch where the sc of the shoe side stops. Cont to sc 12 to marker.
Sl st to 1st sc (where marker is) of the row 3 of sc made earlier. Cont. to sl st all to way to the top of shoe. Sl st top of shoe and all the way to the other side of shoe and sl st at marker. Fasten off.

Straps:
Ch 22
2 sc in 2nd ch and 1 sc in all the ch, except 2 sc in the last ch. Work on the opposite of ch, 2 sc in the next ch, 1 sc in all ch, except 2 sc in the last ch. Sl st to 1st ch to join.

Attach straps to side of shoe along with buttons or crocheted accessory of your choice.
Add Puffy Paint to make your newly made crocs non-skid.

EZ Breezy Newsboy Cap


Method: Crochet

Size: 2T
Hook: F & G
Yarn used:
100% AC Moore Mill Ends Cotton + Bernat Baby Sport





Size: 5 - 7 years old
Hook: G & H
Yarn used:
100% AC Moore Mill Ends Cotton + Bernat Baby Sport




Size: 8 - Tween
Hook: H & I
Yarn used:
100% AC Moore Mill Ends Cotton + Bernat Baby Sport



Size: Adult
Hook: H & J
Yarn used:
2 strands of 100% AC Moore Mill Ends Cotton

Yarn suggestions:
• Any worsted or bulky yarn like.Red Heart Super Savers, Bernat Super Value
• If you don’t have any worsted or bulky yarn, combine 2 strands of medium yarn or a medium + a baby yarn. For adult size, I find it better to use 2 strands of medium yarn. I used cotton as it is currently summer. Chenille yarn would work too and it’s great for colder weather.
• The thicker yarn you used, the stiffer your cap will be.

Stitch markers, I used small safety pins (from Dollar Tree)

Stitches used:
Hdc – yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 3 lps

Dc dec – yo, insert hook into st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo, insert hook into next st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo and pull through all 3 lps.

Magic Loop/Adjustable Ring – By using magic loop, it eliminate the gaping hole when crocheting in rounds.

NOTE:
Crochet with both strands of yarn together.
Work in continuous rounds without joining. Place a stitch marker in first st of every round.
• Select the size of cap, and use the larger hook for the hat, and smaller hook for the visor.



With larger hook
Rnd 1
Using Magic Loop method, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), work 11 dc into loop – (12 sts)
{Alternately, without Magic Loop method: ch 4, dc into 4th ch from hook. 11 dc into the same ch}

Rnd 2
2 dc in top of ch-3 and in each st – (24 sts)

Rnd 3
[Dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] all around – (36 sts)

Rnd 4
[Dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] all around – (48 sts)

Rnd 5
[Dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] all around – (60 sts)

Rnd 6
[Dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st] all around – (72 sts)

Rnd 7
Dc all around – (72 sts)

Rnd 8
[Dc in the next 4 sts, dc dec] all around – (60 sts)

Rnd 9 & 10
Dc all around – (60 sts)

Visor:
Switch to smaller hook

Rnd 1
Hdc in next st, sc in the next 20 sts, hdc in next st (place marker here for joining later), turn

Rnd 2:
Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, [2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st] 7x, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st (in hdc where marker is, keep marker in place), ch 1, turn.

Rnd 3
Sc in 2nd st, , hdc in next st, dc in next st, [2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st] 7x, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st. Switch to bigger hook.

Finishing off
Hdc in marker, sc all around hat, sl st to join to visor.

Switch to smaller hook and sc all around visor, join with sl st at the sc of hat brim. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Straps (optional) – for smaller size cap, decrease beg ch, or increase for larger size.
Ch 43 (this is for 8 yrs - tween), hdc 2nd ch from hook, hdc all across, sl st to opposite of on base of beg ch. Fasten off.
Attach to front of cap along visor. Decorate with button or any crochet accessory.