KNIT POSSIBLE

Stay-on Hand Towel the 2nd

2011-04-27T16:22:00.001-04:00

I've counted! Today, I had to retrieve the hand-towel from the floor 33 times after the kids went in to wash their hands! So, short of tying a hand towel to their shirt (which I did threatened, and got a response of: "can you make mine a bunny shape, then I can use the ears to tie to my shirt!!"), I decided to make more (no not bunny shape, although that did spark my interest ;] )as the 1st one had been on the towel ring since I put it on! Woohoo!

Hang on towel ring

Or hang on oven door handle

Stitches Used/Abbreviation:

Cable CO: insert right needle in between 2 stitches, wrap yarn as if to knit, pull up a loop, and put the loop on left needle. Video instruction here. Since there's already stitches on left needle, skip the slip knot and first 2 sts, observe when she CO the 3rd st. This is what is needed for the pattern below.

St St : RS - knit, WS - purl (this will count as 1 st st row)

Garter st: knit on both RS and WS. (this will count as 1 garter st row)

byf: bring yarn forward to front of needle
byb: bring yarn to back of needle

psso: pass slip stitch over

k2tog: knit 2 together

pm - place marker
sm - slip marker

Border: (k, p) 3x, k1

Notes:

When you see "garter st for 2 rows" in pattern instructions, you would knit on both RS & WS, and this 2 row would count as ONE garter st row.

When you see byf, bring the yarn forward, keep the yarn in front of needle, then knit the following stitch.

Needles: 5.0 mm /US 8

Yarn: Bernat Handicrafter in Country Pink & Dark Brown

Ruffles:

CO 84 in Country Pink

St st for 4 rows (or till your st st measure 1", ending on the WS)

(RS) k2tog to the end (42 sts)

Garter st for 2 rows

P the next row

Pattern Stitch:

Attach new yarn

1) Border, pm, k1, [sl 1, k1, psso, k9, k2tog]; repeat [ ] 1 more time, k1, pm, Border.

2) & 4) Border, sm, p to marker, sm, Border

3) Border, sm, k1, [sl 1, k1, psso, k7, k2tog]; repeat [ ] 1 more time, k1, sm, Border.

5) Border, sm, k1, [sl 1, k1, psso, byf, (k1, byf)5x, k2tog]; repeat [ ] 1 more time, k1, sm, Border.

6) Border, sm, k to marker, sm, Border

Repeat Pattern Stitch 9 times, ending with row 6)

Note: If you don't want the slit, skip the following section, and proceed straight to the After Slit section.

Border, St st for 4 rows, Border.

Slit Opening:

(RS) Border, k5, byf, sl next st purlwise, byb, *sl next st, psso; repeat from * till there's 4 sts left before marker.

Sl the last bo st back on the right needle to the left needle. (you now have 5 sts before marker on left needle)

Turn work (WS), byb, CO 21 sts using cable CO

Turn work (RS), byb, sl the next st on left needle to right needle, pass 1 st of the CO (on right needle) over.

k1, k2tog, k1, Border. (42 sts)

(WS) k to end

St st for 2 rows.

Garter St for 1 row.

After Slit:

Continue working Pattern Stitch section for 9 times, ending with row 6).

Garter st for 1 row.

Loop towel through the slit opening onto towel ring.

Then pull the top through slit.

With RS facing and ruffles on bottom, put towel through the towel ring.

Stay-on Hand Towel the 1st

2011-04-25T22:47:00.000-04:00

There's always a spot for my ever-growing yarn stash in my closet. Now, these "growing" stash are threatening to dominate hubby's closet as well. Most of these stash are from my early crochet years. I would stock up on yarn whenever there's a sale at AC Moore. I know little or close to nothing about yarn when I first started, so needless to say, I thought it was a pretty GOOD deal to be paying $6 for 1 pound of 100% cotton. I thought these would look great as vest or skirt when I get to that level where I can crochet/knit garments! Little did I know that, these yarn aren't meant for making garments! Off course, like everything else, I had learned the hard way ;) Made a few garments for my girls using these Handicrafters Cotton, and well... they are now very attractive floor mats or dish towel! Currently, I can look back and laugh at this idiot in the mirror who uses all the wrong kind of yarn for her crochet & knits! :P

So, now I know better, it is time to reduce those over 10 skeins of Handicraters so I can stock up on the more luxurious yarn!

Stitches Used:

St St : RS - knit, WS - purl (this will count as 1 st st row)

Garter st: knit on both RS and WS. (this will count as 1 garter st row)

byf: bring yarn forward to front of needle

byb: bring yarn to back of needle

psso: pass slip stitch over

k2tog: knit 2 together

p2tog: purl 2 together

Notes:

When you see "garter st for 2 rows" in pattern instructions, you would knit on both RS & WS, and this 2 row would count as ONE garter st row.

Needles: 5.0 mm /US 8

Yarn: Bernat Handicrafter in Grassy Green & Dream Twist

Ruffles:

CO 60 in Grassy Green

St st for 4 rows (or till your st st measure 1", ending on the WS)

(RS) k2tog to the end (30 sts)

Garter st for 2 rows

P the next row

Pattern Stitch:

Attach new yarn

1) k3 (this is border), k3, k2tog, k4, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, yo, k4, sl 1, k1, psso, k3, (border) k3.

2) and every other row: k3, (border), p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, (border) k3.

3) k3 (border), k2, k2tog, k4, yo, k1, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k1, yo, k4, sl 1, k1, psso, k2, (border) k3.

5) k3 (border), k1, k2tog, k4, yo, k2, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, k4, sl 1, k1, psso, k1, (border) k3.

7) k3 (border), k2tog, k4, yo, k3, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k3, yo, k4, sl 1, k1, psso, (border) k3.

8) repeat row 2)

Repeat Pattern Stitch for 6 times, or until desired length (taking into account that there will be 4" more to towel top), ending with row 8)

(RS) k3 (border), St st for 4 rows, k3 (border).

Slit Opening:

(RS) k3 (border), k3, byf, sl next st purlwise, byb, *sl next st, psso; repeat from * till there's 5 sts left.

Sl the last bo st back on the right needle to the left needle.

Turn work (WS), byb, CO 19 sts using cable CO

Turn work (RS), byb, sl the next st on left needle to right needle, pass 1 st of the CO (on right needle) over.

k5 to the end. (30 sts)

(WS) k to end

Garter st for 2 rows.

(RS) k to end

(WS) k3 (border), p to last 3 sts, k3 (border).

Towel Top:

1) (RS) k3 (border), k2 tog, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3 (border).

2) (WS) k3 (border), p2tog, p to last 5 sts, p2tog, k3 (border).

Repeat row 1) and 2) till there's 7 sts left on needle, ending with row 2)

(WS) k3 (border), p2tog, k3 (border).

Garter st for 2 rows.

BO.

Loop towel through the slit opening onto towel ring.

Non-stop!

2011-04-19T21:35:00.005-04:00

Since the passing of the glove bug, this is what I've been up to these past months...

Skirt and Cardigan

Spring Cardigan for GB

Bolero for Ruthie. modeled by B2

Pineapple Print Bolero

Wavy Bolero

Experimented (using short-row knit) with whole bunch of headbands. Made some applique to attach to headbands or use as head pins.

For myself:

All Season Scarf

Glittering Matcha Pullover

V-Neck Tee

Currently, bitten by the dish/hand towel bug!

Hot Hand Warmers

2011-01-28T22:43:00.003-05:00

One hand warmer, two hand warmer, three hand warmer, four! These are all made with the same concept like the Toddler Hand Warmer. They all started out a rectangle. As I like to try different pattern stitch, each of these hand warmer have a different pattern stitch for the back of the hand.

For B1:

Patt St - work over 15 sts

k2, [k2tog (don't slip off needle), p2tog (the same 2 sts), k1] 4x, k1

CO 33 (15, 3, 15) 15 for patt st (back of hand), 3 for thumb inc, 15 for st st (palm)

Needle: 3.25mm for cuffs, 3.75mm

Hook: 3.75mm

Yarn: Caron Simply Soft in dark brown, & pink

For B2:

Patt St - work over 17 sts

1) (RS) k

2) p1, *[p3tog (leave sts on needle), yo, p the same 3 sts tog again], p1; rep from * to end

3) k

4) p3, [p3tog (leave sts on needle), yo, p the same 3 sts tog again], *p1, [p3tog (leave sts on needle), yo, p the same 3 sts tog again]; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3

CO 38 (17, 4, 17)

Needle: 3.25mm

Yarn: TLC Baby in Powder Pink

For KB:

Patt. St - work over 17 sts

1) (RS) k1, *p3tog (don't slip to the other needle, leave it on the current needle), bytb, k3tog (the same 3 sts that was purled), bytf, p3tog (the same 3 sts), then slip to other needle, k1*; rep * to *

2) p

CO 38 (17, 4, 17)

Needle: 2.75 for cuffs, 3.75mm

Hook: 3.75mm

Yarn: Bernat Baby Sport in Powder Blue

For AB:

Patt St - work over 21 sts

1) (RS) p1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end

2) k1, *[p3tog (leave sts on needle), yo, p the same 3 sts tog again], k1; rep from * to end

3) p1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end

4) k1, p1, k1, *[p3tog (leave sts on needle), yo, p the same 3 sts tog again], k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1

CO 46 (21, 4, 21)

Needle: 3.25mm

Yarn: TLC Baby in Powder Pink

For Anna:

In the making

For Hubby:

Planning stage

For Self:

Take a back seat! :p

Stay-on Scarf Applique

2011-01-28T19:39:00.002-05:00

These are the applique I crocheted for the Stay-on Scarfs. My favorite is the dog :), and the most fun I had crocheting is the peace sign which my friend's daughter requested.

Adult Gaunlet Hand Warmers

2011-01-28T18:01:00.003-05:00

I knitted this for a friend who just recently started to get joint pain during this season's coldest winter. Since it's mostly the back of her hand that's aching, this hand warmer would keep the back of her hands warm, and yet keep her fingers free for daily indoor chorus.

Just like the Toddler Hand Warmer, this is knitted in rectangle, with increase around the thumb area. Then the finished piece is seam together, and the "ring" of the glove is crocheted on.

To adjust for bigger size, increase pattern stitch by 4, increase thumb increase by 2, and add 4 more sts to the palm side.

Needle: 3.75mm for cuffs, & 4.5mm

Hooker: 3.75mm

2 stitch markers

Yarn: Caron Simply Soft in dark brown

Size: Adult Small

bytb - bring yarn to back of work

bytf - bring yarn to front of work

Patt. St

RS:

k1, *p3tog (don't slip to the other needle, leave it on the current needle), bytb, k3tog (the same 3 sts that was purled), bytf, p3tog (the same 3 sts), then slip to other needle, k1*; rep * to *

WS: p

Note:

p on WS throughout
inc 2 sts for thumb opening on every 5th row

Right Hand

CO 38 with 3.75mm

Work 1x1 rib till piece measures 1" ending on WS

Switch to 4.5mm needles

k 1 row

p 1 row

[RS facing, work patt st over 17 sts, k4, k17 ] ; rep [ ] till piece measures 2" from CO, ending on WS

RS facing, work patt st over 17 sts, [pm, m1, k4, m1,]--> thumb inc, k17

Rep highlighted row, inc thumb every 5th row, until thumb inc = 12 sts, ending on WS

[RS facing, work patt st to marker, k12, k17 ] ; rep [ ] till piece measures 3.5" from CO, ending on WS

RS facing, work patt st to marker, BO12, k17

WS facing, BO17, CO 4, p17

[RS facing, Work patt st over 17 sts, k4]; rep [ ] till piece measures 4.5", ending on WS

RS, k 1 row

WS, BO but do not fasten off the last sts.

Using 3.75mm hook, ch-5, attach to the "crease" - red line (refer to diagram above) with an sc, ch-7, attach to crease with sc, ch-8, attach to crease with sc, ch-5, attach to edge, fasten off.

Seam together starting from CO.

Left Hand

Notes: working the left hand is simply knit first (for palm), then work the pattern stitch

CO 38 with 3.75mm

Work 1x1 rib till piece measures 1" ending on WS

Switch to 4.5mm needles

k 1 row

p 1 row

[RS facing, k17, k4, work patt st to end] ; rep [ ] till piece measures 2" from CO, ending on WS

RS facing, k17, [pm, m1, k4, m1,]--> thumb inc, work patt st to end

Rep highlighted row, inc thumb every 5th row, until thumb inc = 12 sts, ending on WS

[RS facing, k17, k12, work patt st to end] ; rep [ ] till piece measures 3.5" from CO, ending on WS

RS facing, k17, BO12, work patt st to end

WS facing, p17, CO 4, p17

RS facing, BO 17, k4, patt st to end

[RS facing, Work patt st over 17 sts, k4]; rep till piece measures 4.5", ending on WS

RS, k 1 row

WS, BO but do not fasten off the last sts.

Using 3.75mm hook, ch-5, attach to the "crease" (refer to diagram) with an sc, ch-7, attach to crease with sc, ch-8, attach to crease with sc, ch-5, attach to edge, fasten off.

Seam together from CO

Toddler Hand Warmer

2011-01-07T21:34:00.000-05:00

His upside-down stance :)

Stockinette on the palm

Pattern on the back of hand

For my 2 year old, it's IMPOSSIBLE to get him to wear mittens! He feels like I am binding his fingers, and will go into a screaming fit! He'll wear gloves, but they are too big! So he dislike it as his "bulgy" finger hinder his activities. Aside from infant mitts, nothing seems to fit. So what else can a knitchetholic mom do to keep his little hands warm?! Make one! :)

This is knitted in rectangle, with increase around the thumb. Then BO for the thumb opening. The finished piece is then seam together. To hold the hand warmer form slipping down when worn, I crochet chains and attached it using surface crocheting.

I didn't document every step as I knitted. Please pardon any mistake, if there's any, as I wrote this after I've finished the hand-warmer.

Needle: Size 2 (2.75 mm)

Hook : 3.25 mm

Yarn: Bernat Baby Sport in Baby Blue

Size: 2.25" in width, 2.75" in height

2 Stitch marker

Term used:

CO - cast on

RS - right side (with your project facing you, cast on tail hangs on the right)

WS - wrong side

patt st - pattern stitch

pm - place marker

m1L - make one left (this is an increase) m1L video - 3rd one down on the right side

BO - bind off
sl st - slip stitch (crochet term)

Rib 1x1

* k, p; rep from * to end

Pattern Stitch

1) *k2, p1; rep from * 3x

2) *k1, p2; rep from * 3x

3) *k2, p1; rep from * 3x

4) k12

For both hands:

CO 26

Rib 1x1 til piece measures 0.5", ending on the RS.

K on WS.

RIGHT HAND:

1) With RS facing, work row (1) of patt. st (total of 12 stitches), k2, k12.
2) p 12, p2, work row (2) of patt st
3) Work row (3) of patt st (12 sts), [pm, m1L, k2, m1L, pm,] --> increase for thumb, k12
4) p to marker, work row (4) of patt st
5) work row (1) of patt. st (total of 12 stitches), k to end. --> the sts within marker is for the thumb

*6) p to marker, work row (2) of patt st.

7) work row (3) of patt st, k to end.
8) p to marker, work row (4) of patt st.

9) work row (1) of patt st (12 sts), [pm, m1L, k4, m1L, pm] --> total 6 sts, k12

Work the highlighted rows, increasing for thumb every 5th row. Work until you have a total of 8 sts for the thumb increase (these are the sts that are within the marker).

When you have 8 sts in thumb increase, repeat row *

Shaping Thumb Opening

1) With RS facing, continue to work patt st (this should be row (3) of the patt st), BO 8, k12

2) p12, CO 3 (using m1T - 2nd one on the left side), work row (4) of patt st

3) Work row (1) of patt st, k to end

4) p15, work row (2) of patt st

5) Work row (3) of patt st, k to end

6) K each st, and BO

Do not fasten off. Using crochet hook, sl st in next 3. Seam the knitted piece, then finish off the crochet chain.

Refer to Diagram 1, use crochet hook, sl st to stitch before the "crease" (refer to Diagram 2), attach to the "crease". See diagrams for further instructions.


DIAGRAM 1 From 1 (where knitting ends), sl st to (2), attach using sc. Ch-4, attach at (3). Sl st in next 3 stitches to (4). Ch-4, attach at (5). Sl st in next 4 stitches to (6). Ch-4, attach to (7). Fasten off.

DIAGRAM 2
Use the "crease" (red lines) as guide when attaching the crocheted chain. Each "column" should hold one tiny finger. :)

LEFT HAND:
1) With RS facing, k14, work row (1) of patt. st (total of 12 stitches).
2) work row (2) of patt st, p14.
3) k12, [pm, m1L, k2, m1L, pm,] --> increase for thumb, work row (3) of patt st (12 sts),

4) work row (4) of patt (end at 1st marker), p to end
5) k to 2nd marker, work row (1) of patt. st (total of 12 stitches).
*6) work row (2) of patt st, p to end.

7) k to 2nd marker, work row (3) of patt st.

8) work row (4) of patt st, p to end.

k12, [pm, m1L, k4, m1L, pm] --> total 6 sts, Work row (3) of patt st (12 sts).

Work the highlighted rows, increasing for thumb every 5th row. Work until you have a total of 8 sts for the thumb increase.

When you have 8 sts in thumb increase, repeat row *

Shaping Thumb Opening
1) With RS facing, k12, BO 8, continue to work patt st (this should be row (3) of the patt st).
2) work row (4) of patt st, CO 3, p12.
3) p15, work row (1) of patt st to end.
4) work row (2) of patt st, p to end.
5) p15, work row (3) of patt st.
6) K each st, and BO

Repeat crochet chain like for right hand.

Stay-on Scarf and a Beanie Sling

2010-12-30T21:24:00.002-05:00

This stay-on scarf is inspired by another fellow knitter, Jemajo. She created her Selbu Scarf using machine knitting. I am not familiar with machine knitting nor should I get anywhere near one because knowing myself, I would probably get addicted!

In my 2 years of knitting, I have only made one, yes, one scarf! Even then, I couldn't just start with a simple scarf. I had to go cables! Which, I think left an emotional scar which have yet to heal. This is probably why I am still not a big fan of cable knits! :p So this time around, I stick to the basic. I could crochet the scarf, it's definitely faster, but the drape of a crocheted scarf is no comparison to a knitted scarf.

12/30/10:
I'm still working on the 3rd scarf for my eldest. When I'm done, and if I wanted a break from knitcheting, I might actually go back and write down all the animal motifs pattern that I crocheted.

1/13/10:
Added B1's scarf photo.

The dog motif is similar to his Summer Booties. I made it bigger here.

He's panting like a dog. ;)

Scarf
Needle: 8 (5.0 mm)
Yarn used:
Lion Brand Lion Suede

I started my son's scarf with garter border on the bottom, and on both sides, stockinette stitch in the middle. Never, ever knit a scarf using stockinette stitch, unless you want a tube! The finer the yarn, the more your scarf will curl into a tube-like thingy if knitted in stockinette stitch. Even by putting a garter border, depending on the yarn, some will still curl your scarf as your knitted scarf gets longer. I find the garter border works best with bulky yarn, especially boucle or polyester yarn.
Then crochet a doggy face and attach to the scarf.
Fold the scarf in half, the motif should be attach midway on one side of the folded scarf.

When I try the kitty scarf on my 2nd, she immediately said,
“OOOO I can put stuff in the kitty!”
I told her, “No sweetie, it goes through, it’s not a pocket.”
“No, no, I CAN put stuff in there!”, she exclaimed with much excitement.
No sense arguing with her, so I just said, “Yea, yea, now please hold still so I can see if I need to make any adjustment to the placement of the kitty.”

A day later, we went grocery shopping, and she wanted to bring one of her beanie cats. Low and behold, that’s how she carried it. With a "I told you so" smirk on her face, she said, “SEE! Mommy! I TOLD you I can put stuff in the kitty!” ;)

Scarf
Needle: 8 (5.0 mm)
Yarn used:
Bernat Pound of Love in pink

Mommy Cat slinging her baby. :)

I knitted this scarf in garter stitch all the way.

Needle: 4.0mm & 4.5 mm
Yarn: Caron Simply Soft in Dark Brown for the scarf
Applique: Bernat Boucle in Soft Orange

The One and Only Doggy

2010-12-30T19:22:00.000-05:00

I don't normally like to crochet amigurumi. Why? Because it's just too much sewing and attaching of pieces!!!
Since this is a request from one of my dearest friend, I'll make an exception.

I must admit, I had fun creating this little fella. Yea, yea, sewing and all! :p We (as in my kids and hubby) didn't name it, because if we did, I'll probably have to end up making another one for my friend to bring home to her nephew! I didn't even get a chance to do a proper photo shoot of the doggy ;) It's a good thing my hubby was playing with his new camera, and went trigger happy with the buttons while I was putting the finishing touch on the doggy.


Decided if we should put a mustache on it. :)

I feel like a surgeon giving it a mouth.

It had a little soft "u" like smile as a mouth.

My camera man took off (note to self: need to fire that guy!), and that's the end of the doggy photo. I had a hard time letting it go. Maybe because it was my first amigurumi that I made up, or perhaps my son kept coming over and say "Aww..so hue, so hue! (cute)". I hope this little doggy will make someone really happy.

Beauty Silk Cami

2010-12-30T18:40:00.000-05:00

Added some beads for the tulip flower using the hook beading method.

Knitted this for Pierrot’s 2nd Contest. Due to time constraint, I went with a camisole even though it's in the middle of winter! Oh well, at least I have a piece of new garment to greet summer with! :)

More details of this cami can be found here on Ravelry.

Curtain Tie-backs

2010-12-30T17:01:00.002-05:00

Borders are inexpensive and a great way to embellish any tired old curtain.

Beaded Tie-backs

Beaded Tie Backs

Flower Tie-backs

The "hook" I used for the Flower Tie-backs, is just a plain old screw, which I glue (using hot glue gun) a jewel flower that fell off from my daughter's old crafts, to the head of the screw. Cheap, green and stylish! :)

The Pink Flamingo Skirt

2010-12-30T16:13:00.003-05:00

Good grief! For the record, I DID NOT name this skirt ;) It's the owner that came up with the name!

Yarn: Lion Brand Pound of Love in Pink

Needle: 4.0mm

Size: 3 - 4 years old

I drafted up 2 designs. Wavy Edge was the one I went with only because I wanted to knit in rounds. After having done it, I think I would prefer to knit in rows, even if it means having to sew! :P

The Wavy Edge tends to curl a little. Therefore, in the future, I would add a 0.5" of Garter Stitch before commencing the wave pattern.

Wavy Edge

Heart Shape

Get Wiggy With It!

2010-10-25T14:53:00.001-04:00

Need to clear off my yarn stash before I can add anymore. So this project is great for using up all the leftover yarns or in my case, I-can't-control-myself- and-over-bought yarns!

Forest Fairy Wig

Traditional Chinese Girl

Size: 22" in diameter

Hook: I (5.0 mm)

Yarn used:

100% AC Moore Mill Ends Cotton in Black (Chinese Girl Hair)

AC Moore Acrylic Mill Ends in Green (Fairy Forest Wig)

Stitch Used:

Dc dec – yo, insert hook into st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo, insert hook into next st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo and pull through all 3 lps.

Rnd 1

Using Magic Loop method, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), work 11 dc into loop – (12 sts). Join to top of Ch-3.

{Alternately, without Magic Loop method: ch 4, dc into 4th ch from hook. 11 dc into the same ch}

Rnd 2

Ch-3, 2 dc in each st, 1 dc in joining ch, join to top of Ch-3 – (24 sts)

Rnd 3

Ch-3, [Dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] to end, 1 dc in joining ch, join to top of Ch-3 – (36 sts)

Rnd 4

Ch-3, [Dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] to end, 1dc in joining ch, join to top of Ch-3 – (48 sts)

Rnd 5

Ch-3, [Dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] to end, 1dc in joining ch, join to top of Ch-3 – (60 sts)

Rnd 6

Ch-3, [Dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st] to end, 1dc in joining ch, join to top of Ch-3 – (72 sts)

Rnd 7

Ch-3, Dc all around – (72 sts)

Rnd 8

Ch-3, [Dc in the next 4 sts, dc dec] all around, join to top of Ch-3– (60 sts)

Rnd 9

Dc all around – (60 sts)

Rnd 10:

Sc all around - (60 sts). Fasten Off.

How to Tassel:

One strand

Half it

Using a large hook, insert hook through post of dc

Pull through

Make a large loop

Grab the "tail", and pull through loop

Pull downwards

Give each strand a tug to tightened.

Fairy Wig:

Put the "hat" on and mark where you want the fringe to start and stop.
Measure how long your want your fringe, double that length. Now fold any piece of paper (or cut a cardboard) to that length (make sure you fold it several times to get a good thickness), then wind around the folder paper/cardboard at least 10x. Cut yarn on both ends. Now you have the strands of "hair", and you're ready to tassel it to the "hat". If you don't have enough "hair", just make more as you go along.
Take 2 strands of "hair", and tassel through every row (or every other row if you find your wig too full) on the post of dc, and on every other stitch. Each tassel would have 4 strands.
Repeat the same for the length of the side and back. When making the "hair" for the back and side, as it is much longer than the fringes, I sat on the floor, heel firmly on floor, toes up, and wind the yarn round my toe-thumb! ;-) This is easier than trying to find an object or trying to cut a cardboard/paper to the length desired.
When you're done, put the wig on and give it a trim. This is the most FUN in making this project, getting to play hair stylist ;-)
To give it a finishing touch, add clips, pins, ribbons to your liking.

Chinese Girl Hair:

6 tassels on last row of dc post

I didn't need to add any fringe as my daughter has black hair, and it camouflage really well. All I needed to do is add the braids.
Put on "hat", mark on the last row of dc, just behind the ears, where the braids will start.
Cut the length desired. I used my staircase post to wind this wig.
With 4 strands of yarn (this would double to 8 strand when tassel-in), tassel to the last row of dc post (where marker is).
Continue to add 5 more tassel - total of 6 tassels.
Take 2 tassels (16 strands of "hair") each, and start braiding.
Tie off end of braid with bands and add ribbon or any cute hair accessories. Trim the bottom, so it's even, if needed.

Jacquards Macaroon V Vest

2010-10-20T14:13:00.008-04:00

It is wonderful to be able to incorporate such a lovely colored garment without having to switch yarn, intarsia or any other color-knit/picture technique, BUT it does come with a major downside when knitting with Jacquards... matching up the color stripe if you're knitting anything other than in rounds or continuous square/rectangle.

For this vest, it was fun until it comes to separating for back, and V shoulder shaping. In order to keep the color stripe pattern consistent, one would have to cut the yarn in different length, and section. It just defeat the purpose of an easy self-pattern, color knitting. On the contrary, it just became more hassle than knitting with more than 2 color of yarn.

I had to estimate how much of the "brown" section and "dotted" section of the yarn is needed to knit the different width for the back, and shoulder. Lots and lots of yarn cutting, and mad load of weave-ins!!

Yarn: Bernat Jacquards in Macaroon
Bernat Baby Sport in Baby Blue for edging

Needle: 4.0mm
Size: 24 months old

Armhole edging is crochet of 4 rows of sc
Neck edging: PU 77 and I used Seeded St

Bone Bag

2010-10-15T17:29:00.005-04:00

Since both Pluto and Dino didn't have a Halloween treat bag, a Bone seems to be the perfect treat!

This is crochet without sewing, including the straps. Making this bag was fun for me as it is like playing with a puzzle... think of it as one of those puzzle where you have to draw an object continuously without lifting your pen, which in this case, how to crochet without having to constantly fasten off, and eliminate sewing.

The bag is worked in rounds, and then the straps are worked up (on the final round of the bag), and then attached when worked to complete the bag.

When working the straps, at first I tried dc, turn, dc, turn... but off course that leaves a very sloppy edge which definitely needs an extra sc or sl st on BOTH edge sides. Bear in mind, this like a puzzle, once you go up the straps, you gotta come back down to continuously work the bag without having to fasten off. Coming back down is a one way street. There's no way to work BOTH side of the strap edge without having to attach another yarn which yield to more weave in... UGH not to my liking!
So in the end, I came up with reverse sl st (rev sl st). This would ensure that the strap is being continuously worked on the RS, without having to turn the work. Now that the turning sticth is eliminated, I only have to worry about the left edge, which will be sl st that takes me back down to my bag. This would create a much nicer edging compare to the turning stitch edging.

Once the bag is completed, the "bone curve" are worked in from top to side. Then sl st over to the other side to add the other set to "bone curve".

Finished measurement:
Width:6, Length: 5", Height: 4"

Hook: F (3.75 mm) and some stitch markers

Yarn: Bernat Super Value in Yellow or any worsted 4-ply.

Stitches used:

Hdc – yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 3 lps.

Rev sl st - insert hook on the previous stitch to the right, yo and pull through lp.

Ch-25

Bottom:
Rnd 1:

From the 3rd st from hook, dc in all ch. (24 sts). Turn

Rnd 2 - Rnd 9:

Ch-2 (count as 1 dc), dc from 2nd st and in all st, including top of ch-2. Turn. (24 sts).

Side: work in rounds from here on.
Rnd 1:
Work 20 sc evenly down the side post of dc (20 sts), sc in each st of chain base (24 sts), work 20 sc evenly up the side of post of dc (20 sts), sc in each st of dc (24 sts). Join with sl st to 1st sc. Total of 88 sts.

Note:
From here on, it'll help tremendously (when working the "bone curve") to put stitch marker as you work up the bag. I didn't use the st markers, and had to count each row, which slowed me down.
Each side of bag is 20 sts, and front of bag is 24 sts. Each round would start with side of bag, then front, then side and lastly front again, before joining to the beginning stitch. Therefore, put a marker on the 20th stitch, put a marker on the 24th st, put a marker on the 20th st.

Rnd 2: work in back loop for this round only
Ch-2 (count as 1 dc), from 2nd st, dc in all around in the back loop. Join with sl st to top of ch-2 (88 sts)

Rnd 3 - Rnd 9:
Ch-2, dc all around. (88 sts)

Rnd 10:
Ch-2, dc in the next 12 sts
Strap:
(Rev sl st in next 4 sts, ch-2, dc in next 3) 12x, sl st back down to the bag, at the back loop of dc post. Cont. to work dc round of bag.
Dc in next 8 (the 20th st for side of bag), dc in next 24 sts (front of bag), dc in next 8 sts
Joining of Strap:

Dc in next st, BUT before completing the dc, with the last 2 lps on hook, line up the strap, insert hook into corner of strap, yo and pull through all 3 lps.
Dc in next st, before completing the dc, with the last 2 lps on hook, insert hook into 2nd st of strap, yo and pull through all 3 lps.
Dc in next st, before completing the dc, with the last 2 lps on hook, insert hook into 3rd st of strap, yo and pull through all 3 lps.
Dc in next st, before completing the dc, with the last 2 lps on hook, insert hook into corner of strap, yo and pull through all 3 lps.

Continue to work dc in the next 8 sts (the 20th st for the other side of bag), dc in next 24 sts, join to top of ch-2. Fasten off.

Curve of Bone:
With front of bag (the 24 sts) facing you, from the top left corner, count backwards 5 dc, and start from there.
Rnd 1:
ch-1, hdc in next, dc in next 3 sts, 3 dc in corner, work 2 dc evenly on the side post of dc in Row 1 (where marker is) *Side note, work 2 dc in post of Row 2, work 1 dc in between row, work 2 dc in post of Row 3, work 1 dc in between row, work 1 hdc in post of Row 4, sc in post of Row 5. Ch-1. Turn.

The in-between Row marked in circles.

*Side Note:
When you're working with the starting of row (when working the bag), the ch-2 will be easy to see, but when working the other 3 side edges, it won't be as easy to detect the "20th" or "24th" dc. That's when the marker comes in handy.

Rnd 2:
Hdc in next st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) 4x, dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st. Ch-1. Turn.

Rnd 3:
Sk 1 st, sc in next 19 sts, sl st in next 2 sts, sl st in post of Row 5, hdc in post of Row 6, work 2 dc in post of Row 7, work 1 dc in between row, work 2 dc in post on Row 8, work 1 dc in between row, work 2 dc in post of Row 9, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st, sl st in next st, ch-2. Turn.

Rnd 4:
Sk 1 st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, dc in next st, (2 dc in next st, dc in next st) 3x, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next, ch-1. Turn.

Rnd 5:
Sk 1 st, sc 18, sl st in next 2 st, sl st to bag^. Sl st over to the other side until it's 5 dc away from the corner, and repeat Rnd 1 - Rnd 5 but stop at ^ and fasten off.

Repeat Curve of Bone for the other front side of the bag.

Mad Capper!

2010-10-03T15:18:00.004-04:00

My initial intention was to make ONE cap for a friend's daughter who just recently turned 1 year old. Instead, I ended up with 4 caps before I reached the perfect fit! She's a petite little girl, that's why I started out making the cap small, only to find that her head isn't as small as it looks ;) It wasn't till I took measurement of her head that I finally got her size!

1st attempt, which ended up being my daughter's Curious George's cap


2nd cap, still a bit too small. Would fit a 6 months old perhaps.


3rd cap, too big! Fit a 3T.

4th. Finally! The perfect fit!

The 4th cap.

Each cap I made has a different variations. The pattern below is for the final cap.

Size: up to 12 months (finished cap measure 20" in diameter)

Hook: 3.75mm & 3.25mm

Yarn used:

Lion Brand Pound of Love in Pink (MC - Main Color)

Red Heart Super Save in Lt. Raspberry (CC - Contrasting Color)

Stitch markers, I used small safety pins (from Dollar Tree)

Stitches used:

Hdc – yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 3 lps

Dc dec – yo, insert hook into st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo, insert hook into next st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo and pull through all 3 lps.

Magic Loop/Adjustable Ring – By using magic loop, it eliminate the gaping hole when crocheting in rounds.

NOTE:

• Work in continuous rounds without joining. Place a stitch marker in first st of every round. Join only from Rnd 11 onwards.

• Do not fasten off when switching colors. Simply drop the color not being worked, and pick up the ones currently being used.

With larger hook

Rnd 1

With MC, using Magic Loop method, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), work 11 dc into loop – (12 sts)

{Alternately, without Magic Loop method: ch 4, dc into 4th ch from hook. 11 dc into the same ch}

Rnd 2

2 dc in top of ch-3 and in each st – (24 sts)

Rnd 3

[Dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] all around – (36 sts)

Rnd 4

[Dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] all around – (48 sts)

Rnd 5

[Dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] all around – (60 sts)

Rnd 6

[Dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st] all around – (72 sts)

Rnd 7:

[Dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st] all around - (84 sts)

Rnd 8:

Dc all around - (84 sts)

Rnd 9:

[Dc in next 5 sts, dc dec] all around - (72 sts)

Rnd 10

Dc all around (72 sts). (To change color: Before pulling through the last 2 loops of the last dc, change to CC, then yo with CC and pull through the 2 loops to complete the last dc.) Do not fasten off. Simply drop the MC, and work with CC.

Rnd 11: (with CC)

Sc in next, [sk next st, 3dc in next st, sk next st, sc in next st) 17x, sk next st, 3dc, sk next st, drop CC, switch back to MC, sl st to 1st sc. (18 shell clusters)

Rnd 12:

Ch-3 (count as 1 dc), 4dc in same st, [sk next st, sc in next st, 5 dc in next st, sk next st, sc in next st]16x, sk next st, 5dc in next st, sk next st, switch to CC, sl st to top of ch-3. (18 shell clusters)

Rnd 13:

Repeat Rnd 11

Rnd 14:

Sc all around, sl st to 1st sc - (72 sts)

Visor:

Rnd 1:

Sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next, [2dc in next, dc in next]10x, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next. Turn.

Rnd 2:

Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next,dc in next, [2 dc in next, dc in next 3]7x, 2dc in next, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next. Turn.

Rnd 3:

Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next, dc in next, 2 dc in next, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next, dc in next 23 sts, 2dc in next, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st, join to hat with sl st. Turn.

Rnd 4:

Sc in all sts of visor, join to hat with sl st. Drop MC, pick up CC.

Finishing off:

Sl st in all sts on visor.

Switch to 3.75mm, sl st all around hat. Fastened off.

Little Scissor Holder

2010-09-03T19:32:00.006-04:00

Getting tired of fishing for my scissor, stitch marker, and pens in my crochet bag, I made this little carrying bag for it.

Hoops for pens


Hoops for scissor

The hoops are made as I crochet the hdc. Using this method, you can place the hoops to your liking. To hold wider items, like scissor, ruler, chain longer. Example, my pen holder, I ch 3, while for my scissor, it's ch 4.

This method may be apply to make a crochet hook or knitting needle pouch/keeper.

My stitch marker, which consist of safety pins

Using pin button instead of having to sew one!

Wahla! Instant button. Gotta love that! :)

Now it's easy to attach & detach my Little Holder Bag.

Hook: 5mm

Yarn: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton in Country Pink

Ch 16

Rnd 1:

From 2nd ch, sc in all ch (15 sts). Turn

Rnd 2:

Ch 1, sc in 1st sc and all sc(15 sts). Turn

Rnd 3:

Ch 1, sc in 1st sc and all sc (15 sts). Do not turn. Continue to work in round.

Rnd 4:

Ch 1, sc in 1st sc and in next 14 sc, 3 sc in last sc, 2 sc in side of work piece, 3sc in 1st base ch, sc in next 14 base ch, 3 sc in last base ch, 2 sc in side of work, 3 sc in ch, join with sl st to ch 1.

Rnd 5: work in BACK loop

Ch 2 (count as 1 hdc), hdc all around, sl st to ch-2. (43 sts)

Rnd 6:

Ch 2, from 2nd st, hdc in next 13, hdc 2 tog, hdc in next 3, hdc 2 tog, hdc in next 14, hdc 2 tog, hdc in next 3, hdc 2 tog. Join to top of ch-2 (38 sts)

Rnd 7:

Ch 2, hdc all around, join to top of ch-2. (38 sts).

Rnd 8:

Ch 2, hdc in next 2, [*turn work, insert hook into the hdc just made (2nd), yo & pull up a lp. (2 lp on hook). Work the 1st lp only, ch 3, turn work back, insert hook into next hdc, yo & pull up a lp, yp & pull through all 3 lps*, hdc in next 2]. Repeat [ ] 3x. Continue to hdc. On the 25th hdc, repeat * to * BUT ch 4 (for scissor holder), hdc on the rest of st, join with sl st to top of ch-2 (38 sts)

Turn work, insert hook into hdc just made, yo & pull up a loop.

2 loops on hook

Working the 1st loop only, ch 3 (or more for holding wider item)


Turn work back, insert hook into next hdc

Pull up a loop, yo & pull through all 3 loops (this is a actually a hdc stitch)

Completed hoops for item holder

Rnd 9 & Rnd 10:

Ch 2, hdc all around, join to top of ch-2. (38 sts).

Rnd 11:

Repeat Rnd 8. As I wrote this after I've completed the bag, my counting may be off. Be sure to check, when you make the 2nd row of hoop holder, that it is lined up with the hoops made on Rnd 8.

Rnd 12 - Rnd 18:

Ch 2, hdc all around, join to top of ch-2. (38 sts).

Finishing off & Strap:

Sl st in next 3, ch 30, hdc 6th ch from hook, hdc in all ch, sl st to next hdc of bag, continue to sl st around top of bag. Join to 1st sl st. Fasten off.

Adjustable Strap

2010-08-26T15:42:00.003-04:00

My 6 year old is really skinny, but tall. Most of her clothing, especially bottoms, are too loose. If I get her a 4 year old skirt or pants, it would fit her waist perfectly, but it be will too short! One would think getting her bottoms with elastic band would solve the problem, but even then, it is falling off her! "Mommy!!!! It fell off when I jumped or run really fast!!"

This skirt is for 6 year old already with an elastic bands, and it's falling off before I add the straps.

So this is what I did:
Added an adjustable straps on the inside. This definitely save me from having to go out and hunt for those adjustable elastic band with button loop.

I sew the button about 1" off the side seam of the skirt on the inside
Sew on a baby fingering yarn about 2.5" from the button. Leaving about 1" tail.
Pull up a loop and chain 20, sl st to lst ch. Fasten off
Sew fasten off tail to skirt
Knot it together a few times with the beginning tail to ensure the sew on chain won't come loose when it's stretched when worn

Add a button & a ch-20 loop.

Loop once to tightened.

Loop again (if you want it tighter), turn loop into figure 8, and hoop around button.

After adding the straps.

After I added the straps, it passed her jumping and running test. It does look a bit funny on the side as it has been tightened, but it should be ok since she wear her shirt out all the time.

Then I started thinking, if she wear her shirt in, it would look bit funny. So I got thinking of adding the straps on the outside.

Variation:

Adding the straps and button on the outside of skirt.

This would serve 2 purpose: hold up her skirt/pants & decorative as well. So in the future, I might try adding the straps on the outside, in the front, with cute buttons or crocheted buttons, or flowers.

V-Stitch Reading Tote

2010-08-23T22:28:00.007-04:00

B2 needed a reading tote for her cubby in school, and I still got plenty of yarn to play with. So I made this for her based on my Bag Organizer Insert.

Got the idea from this paper bag.

Monster Ball! 1st time I've seen such a huge ball of yarn! Picked it up on clearance $8 at AC Moore.

Hook: 3.5mm

Yarn: Color A - Red Heart Super Value in Lt. Raspberry.

Color B - Light Maroon, it came without a label, but similar to Red Heart Super Value.

Yarn Suggestions: Bernat Super Value, any medium worsted or bulky yarn.

Finished object measurements: 10" L x 3"W x 13.5" H

With Color A

Ch 46

Rnd 1:

Hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc in all ch, (44 sts). Turn.

Rnd 2 - Rnd 8

Ch 2, hdc in 1st st and in all st. (44 sts). Turn.

Rnd 9

Ch 2, hdc in 1st st, hdc in all st (44 sts). Do not turn.

Ch 1, sc on each hdc row (9 sc), ch 1, hdc in next 44, ch 1, sc on each hdc row (9 sc), ch 1, join to top of ch-2. (106 sts)

Rnd 10 work in back loop

ch 2, from 1st st, hdc in the next 44 sts, sk ch-1 st, hdc in next 9 st, sk ch-1, hdc in next 44 sts, sk ch-1, hdc in next 9 st, sk ch-1, join to top of ch-2 (106 sts)

Rnd 11 - rnd 13

Ch 2 (count as 1 hdc), from 2nd st, hdc all around (106 sts), join to top of ch-2. Fasten off.

Rnd 14

With Color B
Ch 3 (count as 1 dc), (sk 1, 2 dc in next st) repeat to 2nd last st, sk 1, 1 dc in the st where ch-3 is. Join to top of ch-3 (108 sts). You''ll have 54 V-st cluster.

Rnd 15 (Sc row)

Ch 1, from 1st dc, sc in all dc on previous row. Do not sc in the ch-3 (the one count as 1 dc). (108 sts) Join to ch-1.

Rnd 16 (V-st row)

Ch 3 (count as 1 dc), (sk 1, 2dc in next st) 53x, sk 1, 1 dc where ch-3 st is. Join to top of ch-3 (54 V-st clusters = 108 sts)

Repeat Sc Row & V-St Row till piece measures 10", ending with V-sts row (rnd 16). Do not fasten off. Drop color B, join in color A.

With color A, work Sc Row.

Do not fasten off, use the "carrying" method below to carry color A up your work.

1) Bring Color A yarn forward, over the top and behind hook.

2) With Color B, proceed to work a ch, repeat step 1), ch, repeat 1), ch. (ch 3 made). Drop Color A, and continue working V-St Row

With color B, work V-St Row.

Repeat Sc Row and V-St Row till piece measure 13.5" ending with Sc Row.
Sl St around top of bag with Color A. Fasten off.

With Color B, sl st on all 4 side edges of bag.

Note: I did not fasten of Color B after the last V-St Row. Instead I leave a really long tail by taking the yarn around the side edges 2x, then cut off the yarn. Sl st down, "carry" the yarn across to the other edge by using a needle, and thread through the inside of bag to hide the yarn. Refer to Diagram 1.

Diagram 1

I really dislike fastening off and joining new yarn especially for short distance. I would avoid it if I can :)

Straps: make 2 with Color A
Note: Leave a long tail at beginning & end of straps for sewing.

Leave a long tail when starting (about twice the height of your bag)
Ch 160, dc in all ch, ch 2, dc on opposite of ch, ch 2, join to 1st dc. Fasten off. Leaving a long tail (about twice the height of your bag) for sewing.

Sewing Straps:

Measure about 2" from edge of bag on each side, and place marker. Line strap up bag starting from where marker is and using pin to hold the straps in place to make sewing easier. Sew up to 2nd last Sc Row, then sew across, and then down towards bottom of bag. Fasten off. Repeat for the other side of straps.

Repeat sewing on the other side of bag.

Bag Organizer Insert

2010-07-23T21:21:00.005-04:00

7/14 - Just got my Spartina 449 Day Tote bag today! LOVE the bag, but unfortunately it lacks compartment! So gonna crochet one!

This is more a method than a pattern. It has a lot of possibilities, very customizable to the way you want it. I did write up the pattern for my insert further down the page, but I encourage you to try to customize it to your bag size, right down to how many pockets you want, and which side you want it at - inside (like mine) or on the outside. :) All this is done without sewing. Don't let this lengthy guide dissuade you. It really isn't difficult. Once you get a hang of it, it's can really cut down the time of having to work a separate piece and then sew to attached to your main piece.

I made a video while crocheting this insert, but since this my first attempt in making videos of my work, it didn't turn out too well. As you will see, I didn't zoom in enough for you to see what I was doing clearly. So I've included a hand drawn diagram, and hopefully these will help you get going.

Notes:

PU - pick up.

This is a knitting term to pull up new stitches along one or more edges of a piece of knitting. I use this term here when outlining dividers and pockets.

So when you see PU, it means: insert hook in starting position, and out on the next position (don't necessary be a stitch, it can be in between stitches), yo, pull up a loop.

Diagram 1

Base:

Starting chain will be the length of your insert. Chain to the length that would fit into your bag length-wise. Refer to Diagram 1.

Rnd 1

Hdc row will be the width of your insert. Hdc 3rd ch from hook, and in each ch till the last chain. Turn

Rnd 2

Ch 2, hdc in 1st st, and in each st till the end. Turn. Repeat this until you get the width of your bag. Refer to Diagram 1.

Diagram 2

Side:

When you reach the width you desire, do not turn. Cont. to work in rounds using sc, adding 3 sc in each corner of the base. Diagram 2.

Diagram 3

Rnd 1:

3sc in next st, sc down the side of base, 3 sc in corner, sc along lower baseline, 3 sc in corner, sc up the side of base, 3 sc in corner, sc along upper baseline, join with sl st to 1st sc made. Diagram 3.

Rnd 2:

Ch 1, for this round only, work sc in back lp all around, join to ch 1.

Rnd 3:

Ch 2, hdc all around, join to top of ch 2. Repeat this row until desired height. Fasten off.

Divider:

Starting

Diagram 4

Turn insert inside out. Join yarn at starting point (Diagram 4) of where your divider will be. {Insert hook in and out, yo and pull up a lp} --> this is PU, {yo and pull through 2 lps} -->; this is sc. Here's a badly made PU & sc video ;) Insert hook in place where you just made your sc, and out on the next st, yo and pull up a lp, and sc. Cont. to PU and sc to outline the base of your divider. Keep count of how many sc made. Keep this number of stitches as you work up your divider with hdc. The number of hdc should be the same as your outlined sc.

Join to wall

When you reach the end of the base, you would want to join with PU and sl st to the wall of the insert. Click at your own risk of eye-ache: another not-so-clear joining video clip. ;)

PU on the wall, keep it real tight, and sl st. Repeat 1 more PU and sl st. Turn.

Building up divider

Rnd 1

Skip the 2 sl st, hdc in sc and hdc in all sc outlined. Keep count! Proceed to [PU and sl st] twice to wall (Last video PU and sl st, I promised!). Turn.

Rnd 2

Skip the 2 sl st, hdc next stitch and all the way to the last hdc. Keep count. [PU and sl st] twice to wall. Turn. Repeat this rnd till divider is same height with your insert. Fasten off.

Pockets:

Diagram 5

Outline your pocket on the insert by using the PU and sc method. Once you've outlined the pocket, sc in each outlined sc toward the lower baseline. Diagram 5.

Rnd 1

Hdc on the base (Diagram 5), PU and sl st to the outlined sc on side, PU and sl st to next sc. Turn. Skip the 2 sl sts, hdc in 1st hdc and all hdc. (Keep count of hdc. The number of hdc should be the same as the outlined sc on the base pocket). PU and sl st to the sc on side, PU and sl st to next sc. Turn. Repeat this rnd till pocket is complete.

Finishing off:

Once you've add in all your desired dividers and pockets, sl st all around top edge to give it a sturdier hold.

Diagram 6

Sl st on the outside, the edge line down of all corner (Diagram 6). This create a crease and would define the shape of your insert.

Hook: G (4.0 mm)

Yarn: Bernat Super Value in True Grey

Yarn suggestions: Red Heart Super Saver, any medium worsted yarn.

Finished object measurements: 10" L x 4"W x 5" H

Ch 43

Rnd 1:

Hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Hdc in all ch, (40 sts). Turn

Rnd 2

Ch 2, hdc in 1st st and the next 39 sts. Turn. Repeat 14x. Do not turn.

From here on, do not turn. Pattern will be worked in the round.

Side:

Rnd 1

3 sc in next st, work 10 sc along the side edge, 3 sc in corner, sc in the next 39 hdc, 3 sc in last hdc, work 10 sc along the other side edge, 3 sc in corner, sc in the next 39 hdc. Join to top of ch 2.

Rnd 2:

Ch 1, for this round only, work sc in back lp. Sc in all the sc of previous row, join to ch 1.

Rnd 3:

Ch 2, hdc around in all sts of previous row, join to top of ch 2. Repeat this row 15x. Fasten off.

Vertical Divider:

Rnd 1:

Turn insert inside out. Count 10 sts from the right, on the upper baseline. Join yarn, PU and work 14 sc across base piece. When reach the wall (you'll be able to see the line where the sc was worked in back lp), PU and sl st to wall twice. Turn.

Rnd 2:

Skip the 2 sl st, hdc in sc, work hdc in the next 13 sc (14 sts). Join to wall with PU and sl st, twice. Turn.

Rnd 3:

Skip the 2 sl st, hdc in 1st st, hdc to the end (14 sts). PU and sl st, twice. Turn. Repeat 15x. Turn. Sl st in 1st hdc, sl st in the next 13 hdc, sl st to wall of insert. Fasten off.

Horizontal Divider:

Rnd 1:

Turn your insert so that your vertical divider is now on your left. From the upper baseline, count 8 rows of hdc, join yarn on the end of 8th row. PU and work 30 sc horizontally across towards your vertical divider. PU and sl st to wall of vertical divider twice. Turn.

Rnd 2:

Skip the 2 sl st, hdc in sc, work hdc in the next 29 sc (30 sts). Join to side wall with PU and sl st, twice. Turn.

Rnd 3:

Skip the 2 sl st, hdc in 1st st, hdc to the end (30 sts). PU and sl st, twice. Turn. Repeat 15x. Turn. Sl st in 1st hdc, sl st in the next 39 hdc, sl st to wall of insert. Fasten off.

Pocket 1:

Keep your work turned inside out. When you work your outline for the pocket, you insert will be turned sideways (horizontal divider will be vertical, and vertical divider will now be horizontal). Count 10 rows from bottom baseline, join yarn on the 10th row about 0.5" away from the side wall of insert. PU and work 11 sc down towards the bottom baseline of insert. PU and work 16 sc across bottom baseline, and PU and work 11 sc up towards upper baseline. Turn work 180 degrees, work 11 sc towards lower baseline. Turn work 90 degrees.

Rnd 1:

Hdc in the next 16 sts, on the base (Diagram 5), PU and sl st to the outlined sc on side, PU and sl st to next sc. Turn.

Rnd 2:

Skip the 2 sl sts, hdc in 1st hdc and hdc in 15 sts. PU and sl st to the sc on side, PU and sl st to next sc. Turn. Repeat this rnd 11x. Sl st in 1st hdc, sl st in the next 15 hdc, sl st to wall of insert. Fasten off.

Pocket 2:

Keep your work turned inside out. When you work your outline for the pocket, you insert will be turned sideways (horizontal divider will be vertical, and vertical divider will now be horizontal). Count 10 rows from bottom baseline, join yarn on the 10th row about 0.5" away from Pocket 1. PU and work 11 sc down towards the bottom baseline of insert. PU and work 10 sc across bottom baseline, and PU and work 11 sc up towards upper baseline. Turn work 180 degrees, work 11 sc towards lower baseline. Turn work 90 degrees.

Rnd 1:

Hdc in the next 10 sts, on the base (Diagram 5), PU and sl st to the outlined sc on side, PU and sl st to next outlined sc. Turn.

Rnd 2:

Skip the 2 sl sts, hdc in 1st hdc and hdc in 9 sts. PU and sl st to the sc on side, PU and sl st to next sc. Turn. Repeat this rnd 11x. Sl st in 1st hdc, sl st in the next 9 hdc, sl st to wall of insert. Fasten off.

Finishing off:

Turn your work right side out. Sl st all around top edge and sl st down each edge on the insert (Diagram 6). Fasten off.

Summer Booties

2010-07-22T19:06:00.005-04:00

His Alex the Lion Winter Booties

I crochet this booty mirroring a winter booty that we bought from Wal-mart last winter. My 20 months old seems to love that booty. He would wear it even in this hot summer heat! Hence, I decided to make one for him not only because it's not so warm to wear, but also he is starting to out-grow the winter one. He definitely prefer this booties over his Toddler Crocs.

Method: Crochet

Size: 2T+ (Finished Sole - 6.25")

Hook: F (3.75mm)

Yarn: AC Moore Mill Ends 100% Cotton -

Color 1 (C1) in Black, Color 2 (C2) Bernat Cotton Baby in Grape Berry, Color 3 (C3) in Bone

Yarn suggestion: Bernat Super Value, Red Heart Super Saver

Material: Four 5mm eyes, two 5mm pompom

Stitches used:

Hdc – yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 3 lps.

Hdc dec – yo, insert hook into st, yo pull up a lp, yo, insert hook into next st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, draw through all 5 lps.

Sole:

Rnd 1

With C1, ch 16, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sc in the next 8, hdc in the next 5, 2 hdc in next, 5 hdc in last ch. Work on the opposite of ch, 2 hdc in next, hdc in next 5, sc in next 8. (35 sts). Sl st to 1st beg ch.

Rnd 2

(2sc in next)2x, sc in next 6, hdc in next 8, 2 hdc in next, 4 hdc in next, 2 hdc in next, hdc in next 8, sc 6, (2sc in next)2x. (44 sts) Sl st in next.

Rnd 3

Sc in next, (2sc in next)2x, sc in next 7, hdc in next 8, (2 hdc in next, hdc in next)4x, hdc in next 8, sc in next 7, (2 sc in next)2x, sc in next. (52 sts) Sl st in next.

Rnd 4

Sc in next 2, 2 sc in next, sc in next 9, hdc in next 10, (2 hdc in next, hdc in next)4x, hdc in next 10, sc in next 9, 2 sc in next, sc in next 2. (58 sts) Sl st in next.

Rnd 5

Sc in next 3, 2 sc in next, sc in next 9, hdc in next 12, (2 hdc in next, hdc in next)4x, hdc in next 12, sc in next 9, 2 sc in next, sc in next 3. (64 sts) Sl st in next.

Side & Top:

Rnd1

Ch 2 (count as 1sc and joining st),

Left shoe - work sc all around in BACK lp

Right shoe - work sc all around in FRONT lp

Sl st to top of ch-2 (65 sts)

Rnd 2

Ch 2 (count as 1 hdc), starting from next st, hdc in the next 12, (hdc dec, hdc in next 3)8x, hdc dec, hdc in next 11 (57 sts). Fasten off.

Rnd 3

Left shoe, with RS facing

Right shoe, with WS facing

Join in C2, ch 3 (count as 1 dc and sl st ch) , dc in the next 11, (dc dec, dc in next 2)8x, dc dec, dc in next 11, join to top of ch 3. (48 sts)

Rnd 4

Ch 3, dc in next 11, (dc dec, dc in next)8x, dc dec, dc in next 10, join to top of ch 3. (39 sts)

Rnd 5

Ch 3, dc all around, join to top of ch 3. (39 sts)

Rnd 6

Ch 3, dc in next 10, (dc dec)9x, dc in next 10, join to top of ch 3. (30 sts)

Rnd 7

Ch 3, dc in next 10, (dc dec)5x, dc in next 9, join to top of ch 3. (25 sts). Fasten off.

Rnd 8 & 9

Join in C1, ch 3, dc all around, join to top of ch 3. (25 sts)

Rnd 10

Ch 3, hdc all around, join to top of ch 3. (25 sts). Fasten off.

Doggy Face:

Rnd 1

With C3, with Magic Loop method, Ch 1, 5 sc into Magic Loop

Rnd 2

2 sc in each sc all around.

Rnd 3

(Sc in next, 2 sc in next)5x, sc in last st, join with sl st in next.

Ears:

[Ch 4, 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, sl st in next, sl st to the next sc on the face]. Sl st in the next 5 sc (to get to the other side to crochet the other ear), repeat from [ ]. Fasten off.

Finishing off:

Weave in all ends. Using hot glue gun, glue eyes and nose. Use puffy paint on the bottom of sole to make it non-skid.

Toddler Crocs

2010-07-16T15:55:00.009-04:00

I created this crocs based on the actual Croc that my son is starting to ourgrew. His original crocs was meant for outdoor used, but he kept bringing them in to wear indoors. Outside shoes are not permitted at home coz for obvious reason, goodness know what sort of stuff that shoe has stepped on being outdoor. So I made these for him.

9/22/10: Made correction to add right-side sole
When I made these, my son doesn't know left from right. So I didn't attempt to make a right-sided sole ;) It wasn't till I made his summer booties that I realize it's easy as flipping to the WS or in the croc's case, crochet in the front loop.

Size: 2T + (Finished Sole is 6.5")

Hook: G (4 mm)

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver or any bulky or medium worsted yarn.

Stitches used:

Hdc – yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 3 lps

Dc dec – yo, insert hook into st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo, insert hook into next st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo and pull through all 3 lps

NOTE:

I used 2 strands of yarn for the sole. It is very tight to crochet given the hook I used, but this gives a thick sole that holds up its shape. The results are worth my slightly sore hands :) Alternately, you could crochet 2 pieces of the sole and sew them together. I'm just not a sewing person ;)

Sole:

Ch 18

Rnd 1

Sc 10 from 2nd ch, hdc in next, dc in next 4, 2 dc in next, 5 dc in last ch.

Work on the opposite of ch, 2 dc in next, dc in next 4, hdc in next, sc in next 10. (39 sts). Sl st to 1st beg ch.

Rnd 2

Hdc in next 10, dc in next 4, (dc in next, 2 dc in next)2x, (2 sc in next)3x, (dc in next, 2 dc in next)2x, dc in next 4, hdc in next 10 (47 sts). Sl st to next st.

Rnd 3

(2 sc in next)2x, sc in next 42, (2 sc in next)2x. (50 sts). Sl st to next st. Fasten off 1 strand of yarn.

Side:

Using only 1 strand from here on, and do not join. Use marker on first st of every round.

Rnd 1

Work in back loop (only for this rnd) - sc all around sole including the sl st sticth (51 sts)

Left shoe - work sc all around sole including the sl st stitch in BACK lp (51 sts)

Right shoe - work sc all around sole including the sl st stitch in FRONT lp (51 sts)

Rnd 2

Sc all around (51 sts)

Rnd 3

Sc 39 ( It's probably easier to just count 12 backwards from the marker), turn. Will proceed to the shoe top next. When top is finished, will cont. to finish the rest of the side.

Top:

Rnd 1:

Work in front loop (only for this rnd) - Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next, dc in next, dc in next 4, (dc dec, dc in next 2)3x, dc in next 4, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, turn

Rnd 2:

Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next, dc in next, (dc dec)2x, (dc in next, dc dec)3x, dc dec, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, turn

Rnd 3:

Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next, dc in next, (dc dec)4x, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next, turn.

Rnd 4:

Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next, dc in next, dc dec, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next.

Finishing Off:

Sl st on the post of turning ch of shoe top (4 sl sts), sl st to the stitch where the sc of the shoe side stops. Cont to sc 12 to marker.

Sl st to 1st sc (where marker is) of the row 3 of sc made earlier. Cont. to sl st all to way to the top of shoe. Sl st top of shoe and all the way to the other side of shoe and sl st at marker. Fasten off.

Straps:

Ch 22

2 sc in 2nd ch and 1 sc in all the ch, except 2 sc in the last ch. Work on the opposite of ch, 2 sc in the next ch, 1 sc in all ch, except 2 sc in the last ch. Sl st to 1st ch to join.

Attach straps to side of shoe along with buttons or crocheted accessory of your choice.

Add Puffy Paint to make your newly made crocs non-skid.

EZ Breezy Newsboy Cap

2010-07-11T20:43:00.006-04:00

Method: Crochet

Size: 2T
Hook: F & G
Yarn used:
100% AC Moore Mill Ends Cotton + Bernat Baby Sport

Size: 5 - 7 years old
Hook: G & H
Yarn used:
100% AC Moore Mill Ends Cotton + Bernat Baby Sport

Size: 8 - Tween
Hook: H & I
Yarn used:
100% AC Moore Mill Ends Cotton + Bernat Baby Sport

Size: Adult
Hook: H & J
Yarn used:
2 strands of 100% AC Moore Mill Ends Cotton

Yarn suggestions:
• Any worsted or bulky yarn like.Red Heart Super Savers, Bernat Super Value
• If you don’t have any worsted or bulky yarn, combine 2 strands of medium yarn or a medium + a baby yarn. For adult size, I find it better to use 2 strands of medium yarn. I used cotton as it is currently summer. Chenille yarn would work too and it’s great for colder weather.
• The thicker yarn you used, the stiffer your cap will be.

Stitch markers, I used small safety pins (from Dollar Tree)

Stitches used:
Hdc – yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 3 lps

Dc dec – yo, insert hook into st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo, insert hook into next st and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo and pull through all 3 lps.

Magic Loop/Adjustable Ring – By using magic loop, it eliminate the gaping hole when crocheting in rounds.

NOTE:
• Crochet with both strands of yarn together.
• Work in continuous rounds without joining. Place a stitch marker in first st of every round.
• Select the size of cap, and use the larger hook for the hat, and smaller hook for the visor.

With larger hook
Rnd 1
Using Magic Loop method, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), work 11 dc into loop – (12 sts)
{Alternately, without Magic Loop method: ch 4, dc into 4th ch from hook. 11 dc into the same ch}

Rnd 2
2 dc in top of ch-3 and in each st – (24 sts)

Rnd 3
[Dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] all around – (36 sts)

Rnd 4
[Dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] all around – (48 sts)

Rnd 5
[Dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] all around – (60 sts)

Rnd 6
[Dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st] all around – (72 sts)

Rnd 7
Dc all around – (72 sts)

Rnd 8
[Dc in the next 4 sts, dc dec] all around – (60 sts)

Rnd 9 & 10
Dc all around – (60 sts)

Visor:
Switch to smaller hook

Rnd 1
Hdc in next st, sc in the next 20 sts, hdc in next st (place marker here for joining later), turn

Rnd 2:
Sc in 2nd st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, [2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st] 7x, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st (in hdc where marker is, keep marker in place), ch 1, turn.

Rnd 3
Sc in 2nd st, , hdc in next st, dc in next st, [2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st] 7x, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st. Switch to bigger hook.

Finishing off
Hdc in marker, sc all around hat, sl st to join to visor.

Switch to smaller hook and sc all around visor, join with sl st at the sc of hat brim. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Straps (optional) – for smaller size cap, decrease beg ch, or increase for larger size.
Ch 43 (this is for 8 yrs - tween), hdc 2nd ch from hook, hdc all across, sl st to opposite of on base of beg ch. Fasten off.
Attach to front of cap along visor. Decorate with button or any crochet accessory.

Yenyen Slipper

2009-06-05T21:21:00.013-04:00

Method: Crochet
Hook: 5.5 mm (I)
Yarn: 1 skein Lion Brand Suede Solids in Fushia

This pattern works better using bulky yarn. Finished sole measures 7”. Using size K (6.5mm) needle, the sole measure 9”

Stitches used:
Hdc – yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 3 lps

Dc dec - yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps, yo, insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps , yo and pull through 3 lps

Sole
Ch 18
Rnd 1
1sc 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 13 ch, 1 hdc in next 2 ch, 2 hdc in next ch, 5 hdc in last ch. Working on opposite side of ch: 2hdc in next ch, 1hdc in next ch, sc in next 13 ch, 2 sc in last lp (40 sts). Join w sl st in 1st sc.

Rnd 2
Ch 1, 2 sc in 1 st (not the sc where you sl st, but the next one), 1 sc in next 13 sts, [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st] 4x, 1 sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st. (46 sts). Join w sl st in 1st sc.

Rnd 3 (use dc if you want a bigger sole)
2 hdc in 1st sc, hdc in next 14 sts, [2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st] 4x, [1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st] 4x, hdc in next 13 sts, 2 hdc in next sts, 1 hdc in next st (56 sts). Join w sl st in 1st sc. Place marker

Do not join from here on
Body
Rnd 4
Sc all around in back lp. (56 sts). Place marker

Rnd 5
Dc in next 11 sts, [dc dec in next 2 st] 17x, dc in next 11 sts (39 sts). Place marker.

Rnd 6
Dc in next 14 sts, [dc dec in next 2 st] 7 x, dc in next16 sts (36 sts). Place marker.

Rnd 7
(For right shoe)
Sc in next 10 sts, ch 15, hdc 5th from hook (button loop made), hdc in next 10 chs, sc in remaining dc, join w sl st in 1st sc. Sl st around top of shoe (including the strap) and fasten off

(For left shoe)
Sc in next 25 sts, ch 15, hdc 5th from hook (button loop made), hdc in next 10 chs , sc in remaining dc, join with sl st in 1st sc. Sl st around top of shoe (including the strap) and fasten off

Sew on button.
Use Puffy Paint on the bottom of sole to make it non-skid.

Loafer Booties

2009-06-04T23:12:00.012-04:00

I first saw this booties in a book (forgotten the title!) while browsing at Barnes & Nobles last year. I really love the booties, but as it was the only pattern that I liked in the book, I wasn't gonna fork out $20 for just one pattern. So I tried to re-create it. It took me a while, but the results are worth it, especially when my 9 months old decided to use it as a chew toy instead! :p

10/11/10:
Corrected the total stitches in Rnd 8.

10/29/11:
Please NOTE!! There's error in pattern from rnd 8 onwards. I will try to find the time to re-write. In the meantime, please wait till I post the corrections. Thanks Dee for notifying me. This will save anyone else from the all the headache! Thanks!

Method: Crochet

Hook: 5 mm (H)

Yarn: Factory Mill Ends-100% Cotton from AC Moore

Finished sole measures 4.75”

Stitches used:

Hdc – yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 3 lps

Sc dec – insert hook into st, yo and pull up a lp, insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 3 lps.

Sole

Ch 13

Rnd 1

1sc 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 8 ch , 1hdc in next ch, 2 hdc in next ch, 5 hdc in last ch. Working on opposite side of lps: 2 hdc in next ch, 1hdc in next ch, sc in next 7 ch, 2 sc in last lp (29 sts). Join w sl st in 1st sc.

Rnd 2

Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next 10 sts, [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st] 3x, 1 sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st (34 sts). Sl st in 1st sc.

Rnd 3

Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next 12 ch, [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st] 2x, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 2x, 1 sc in next 12 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st (41 sts). Sl st in 1st sc.

Rnd 4

Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 13 st, [2 sc in next st, 1sc in next st] 3x, [1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 3x, sc in next 13 sts, 1 sc in next 2 st (48 sts). Sl st in 1st sc. Place marker.

From here on, do not join. Use marker.

Body

Rnd 5

Sc all around in back lps (48 sts). Place marker

Rnd 6 & 7

Sc all around in both lps (48 sts. Place marker)

Rnd 8

[1 sc in next 2 st, sc dec in next 2 st] 8x (~~40 sts~~) (32 sts). 1 sc in next 6 st, 1 sc in sc below, beyond marker (total 7 sc beyond marker), turn

Flap (which will be turned down and sew to shoe)

Work in rows from here on

Row 1

Ch 1, 1 sc in next 19 sc, 1 sc in sc below ** (20 sts). Turn.

** Note: this is where the top is joined in **

Row 2 to 8

Ch 1, 1 sc in next 20 st.(20 sts). Fasten off, leaving a long yarn (go around the flap 3x should be enough for sewing) to sew flap on to side and back of shoe.

Top

Ch 10

Rnd 1

Sc in 4th ch from hook, sc in next 7 ch, ch 2. Working in the opposite of ch, sc in next 7 lps, sc next ch, ch 2, sl st in next ch-3 ch. Place marker.

Rnd 2

Sc in next ch, sc in next 8 sts, 3 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in next 9 sts, 3sc in ch-2 sp.

Rnd 3

[sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts] 2x. (28 sts)

Rnd 4

[sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in each of next 6 sts] 2x. (40 sts). Sc in next 5 sts beyond marker. Do no fasten off. You will use the attached yarn to join the top piece to the body piece.

Joining

Take the top and join (at the ** notation, but join at the sc of the top row, NOT below where you’ve made the sc) with a sl st to RS of body.

After joining with sl st, line the sc of the top with the sc of the body, and use sc to join the two pieces together. Insert hook under both strands of next sc of top and body, yo, pull up a lp, yo and pull through all 2 lps. Continue in this manner until 20 sc have been joined. Fasten off.

Finishing

Fold the flap in half toward the heel of the shoe, and sew it down along the edge.

Ch 60 using cc for the shoe lace.

Thread the shoe lace through the folded flap, and bring the ends out through the top front.

Tie in a bow.